Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G to perth autoclutch and see Roy (I think) look around $850-$900 for a 2500 pound pressure plate with a metal plate. Pretty much all you'll need for up to 400HP (at flywheel). I will be getting one next week as well... stock clutches are dogs when you start running more boost and power.

Rob

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5359-1k-clutch/#findComment-81841
Share on other sites

ross @ autoclutch

you cann get an organic with 2500lbs pressure plate for $650-$700

that price from cypher is a little expensive. i wouldnt use them for clutch stuff. go to someone who specialises in them.

if u look backa few pages i asked this same question and got a heap of repsonses.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5359-1k-clutch/#findComment-81874
Share on other sites

Originally posted by adam 32

ross @ autoclutch

you cann get an organic with 2500lbs pressure plate for $650-$700

that price from cypher is a little expensive. i wouldnt use them for clutch stuff. go to someone who specialises in them.  

if u look backa  few pages i asked this same question and got a heap of repsonses.

ermm pardon my ignorance but can u explain whut an organic with 2500lbs pressure plate means?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5359-1k-clutch/#findComment-81916
Share on other sites

HAHAHA! nice one dude! shouldn't be that hard to recognise ya then next time! Avatar should definately Help!

Lemme know how you go on the cluthc upgrade us i have a feeling mine too is on the way out and will need a replacement in the near future!

One question though guys. Due to my freewayd rives in peak hour and the odd occasion when i get too drunk and my gfriend has to drive what clutch is easy to operate and doesn't require having to put all your effort on the clutch pedal. I recall IMACUL8 getting one of these heavy duty clutch and he said the pedal was HEAPS harder to push down! i don't think my gfriend would drive it and i think i would have to push the car home from northbridge or sumfin!:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5359-1k-clutch/#findComment-82034
Share on other sites

25GTT:

my car has some kind of heavy duty clutch, got told it was a nismo one, but dunno what to believe, when i first drove the thing for a test drive i stalled it about 5 times, cause i was only used to standard skyline clutch:lol: :lol: :lol: , but its ok now that im used to it, heaps better than standard, it just takes a while for getting used to, and a few marks left a the lights :burnout:

Cam.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5359-1k-clutch/#findComment-82039
Share on other sites

Flat top. Able towing service, ask for brian tell him Robert from harvey norman gave you his number. call him on 0418290469, he will flat top your car from your house to auto clutch. That price is good, you must have gone with the organic clutch and not the metal clutch. The metal one is the one I am getting and its around $850 drive in and out.

Rob

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5359-1k-clutch/#findComment-82444
Share on other sites

godfather thats the same clutch i got form there.

Seems good. But the grip point is real close to the floor, im used to it now,but you might want to get them to adjust it.

the only cr ap thing is it makes a loudish squeaking noise on idle wthout the clutch pushed in. when you push it in the sound stops. to me it sounds like a squeaky fan belt or something but obviously its related to the clutch. it sounds sh*t,but i havent been bothered going back there to get them to fix it.

Ben

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5359-1k-clutch/#findComment-82463
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...