Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm going to change the diff and the auto gearbox oil in the next few days and i'm just wondering what other ppl have used or think what would be better. I've decided to go with RedLine products as i dont mind spending a lil bit extra for the quality.

At the moment i'm thinking heavy shockproof for the diff and i haven't decided which one for the gearbox. I'm thinking between the Hi Temp ATF and the Racing ATF.

Hi Temp would give me smoother gear changes than the Racing one but for the better shift performance i'm probably leaning towards the Racing ATF.

They say that the Racing one doesn't have any sliping additives so i'm not sure if it would be recommended for the R32 automatic gearbox.

Help please!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54114-which-redline-oil/
Share on other sites

Use lightweight shockproof in the diff. The heavy stuff is too thick.

As for ATF, just stick with the Synthetic D4 ATF. The Hi Temp stuff isnt really worth payin extra for unless you want piece of mind. The Racing ATF will most likely prematurely wear out your clutch packs because it is not Dexron III approved.

I went with Heavy shockproof for the diff and its fine. I was told if i get any clanking noise from the diff to come back and they'll put some slipping additive to fix the problem - but there was no need for that.

As for the Auto gearbox, i haven't done it yet. I haven't had time and i'm still undecided on what to use. I was gonna go with Hi Temp for the piece of mind or Racing oil for that extra oomph but not sure of the side effects.

Has anyone used any of them???

I used lightweight shockproof in my diff and it seems to have fixed the occasional one wheel spin I was getting.

I also put Redline High Temp ATF in the auto and it sharpened the shifting a little but not heaps because I didn't have the pump you need to get the fluid out of the torque converter.

I think I'll go for Racing ATF next time but I want to make sure I've got some cash in reserve before I do it just in case. There's not many people know about R34 auto boxes.

I just got of the phone with one of the guys from Australan Distributors for RedLine Oils and he put a whole new spin on the situation.

His opinion is that more slipping in the automatic gearbox will give you a smoother ride BUT it also increases the gearbox wear.

He strongly recommends the Racing ATF, with no slipping additives, for the better shift response and loger life of the gearbox as long as i don't mind the jerk between the gear changes, which would feel like a manual driven car.

This is a 180 degree spin around from what i was thinking.

His name is John.

AUSTRALIAN DISTRIBUTORS – Red Line Oils Pty Ltd, Ph: 1300 88 1213 Email: [email protected]

Any thoughts on this?

Thats an interesting find. Maybe hes right, but I dont really like the idea of putting non specified fluids into something expensive like an auto tranny. His analogy is sorta like slipping a clutch. Slip and ride a clutch like 17 yo n00b in a festiva, then the clutch wont last. I suppose you can try the Racing ATF and check the shifting, but I reckon the HiTemp or D4 stuff is still the way to go personally...

I spoke to that guy too but I wish I had some other knowledge. Wait... doh! My dad is a mechanic...

ok just called him.

He said it would make sense that the Racing ATF with no slipperiness additives would produce less wear of your bands and such. If anything it might put more stress on your planetary gear set but due to their design they are unlikely to be a weak point. If you know how they work you will understand.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes, I know🙄 but the sequential is not in my budget... don't want to reduce power neither, so looks like I'm stuck in the rabbit hole🤣
    • You’ll be very upset when you bust that too not to mention the gearing totally sucks. Don’t do it.
    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
×
×
  • Create New...