Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm looking at getting a HD clutch installed as mine is dead,

anyone recommend sticking in a lighten flywheel?

I know it doesn't do any kw increase but does do acceleration

increase. Would the difference be seen between one with /

one without the lightened flywheel.

Or should it only be put in after a certain amount of hp?

In other words, my question is really how does it compared

for:

$$$ vs Value???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/545-lightened-flywheels/
Share on other sites

I had a lightened flywheel in my WRX and yes acceleration does improve. But, it's a real pain to drive around the city. You lose out on bottom end torque.

Very good if you get it out on the track cause you can keep the revs up easily.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/545-lightened-flywheels/#findComment-13302
Share on other sites

Guest Krystian

Yeah, Prank's right.

You definately get a good response in the acceleration department.

Light flywheels aren't that good for city driving, or driving in the wet for that matter. The accelerator becomes a lot more "touchy" and unless you have perfect control you can lose it easliy around a corner.

In other words, if you drive it every day then it's not a good idea, if you just take it out to give it a little squirt now and then, then go for it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/545-lightened-flywheels/#findComment-13303
Share on other sites

Thanks guys.. Just didn't know anyone who had one

to tell me the differences. :lol:

Jimbo..

I'm not 100% sure, but this is my uinderstanding.

Your clutch is connected to your axles and diffs.

The flywheels is a rotating part from your engine,

which looks like a really big disc.

By letting go the clutch, you make these two join

together hence turning the axles to make the car

move.

I hope that explains it.

More than happy if someone corrects me for any

wrong info there. :oops:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/545-lightened-flywheels/#findComment-13305
Share on other sites

Hands up who knew I'd post about this one.

Light flywheel is a good thing for an engine like the skyline's.

The revs build faster, boost comes on faster Hello! are we all not driving turbo cars here?

Driving around the street, RB engines have plenty of spare torque unlike the 4 pot WRX, WRX's have rather short ratio rear ends to make matters worse.

There is often no loss of torque with well made light flywheels, JUN/HKS and Ogura are all very good at keeping the torque. What you will notice is the excellent engine braking effect (revs drop quicker off throttle) and reduced strain on gear box.

If you like 400m or track the light flywheel is great and WILL drop the times. Go lighter for 400m and super light for track work.

I've been around quite a number of cars with light flywheels and they are a real "sleeper" mod. You won't be dissapointed. :mrgreen:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/545-lightened-flywheels/#findComment-13307
Share on other sites

Got mine lightened a fair bit and it made a big difference

When people talk about loosing torque this is true, but only when taking off and flat changing. Your flywheel is basically a large lump of metal that spins with the motor, like anything, if it's lighter it requires less energy to change it's rotation speed, both acceleration and decelaration.

OK: That's all well and good but what's it mean? I found when taking off easy at lights the engine required slightly more throttle to prevent stalling. That is a minor, and in my opinion only, draw back.

The upside is your motor will be MUCH more responsive and have much more sensitive throttle feel.

It was a big help for drifting ;o)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/545-lightened-flywheels/#findComment-13309
Share on other sites

Got mine lightened a fair bit and it made a big difference

When people talk about loosing torque this is true, but only when taking off and flat changing. Your flywheel is basically a large lump of metal that spins with the motor, like anything, if it's lighter it requires less energy to change it's rotation speed, both acceleration and decelaration.

OK: That's all well and good but what's it mean? I found when taking off easy at lights the engine required slightly more throttle to prevent stalling. That is a minor, and in my opinion only, draw back.

The upside is your motor will be MUCH more responsive and have much more sensitive throttle feel.

It was a big help for drifting ;o)[/quote:038c9b3a6f]

Dude I hope you didn't go and lighten the stock flywheel.

The skyline RB ones are cast iron and like all cast iron the outer skin is the only part thats strong, not to mention the fact that you can't get the weight down very much vs a lighter steel alloy. I'd understand losing torque if you go down this road as the aftermarket units have less rotating mass on the outer edge to acheive the benifits as opposed to a lightened cast one that has an even facing.

Maybe you meant an aftermarket flywheel though, cause otherwise you are driving a bit of a handgrenade is its a cast iron job.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/545-lightened-flywheels/#findComment-13310
Share on other sites

ahh.. so many mods.. so little time... :twisted:[/quote:4583aaaad0]

Unique auto sports has got a cheap light steel alloy flywheel $450 i think.

5.8kg as opposed to 9/10kg on the stock one.

Or our favortite taki kaira web site flogs the ogura flywheel for about $650 inc freight it weighs only 4.8kgs.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/545-lightened-flywheels/#findComment-13312
Share on other sites

Originally posted by adam 32

just read your pose there rev

im gettin my flywheel machined to smooth it out not to lighten it, when you say the cast iron outer is the only strong part, how thick is this outer layer

ie how far can you machine it without taking away from its strength...

They will just 'face' your flywheel, normally they don't take much off. Let them you know you don't wan't it lightened (as in take off kilo's). Don't worry this is not the same as lightening it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/545-lightened-flywheels/#findComment-18045
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't think the shuffle can damage the turbos. It only happens at low shaft speeds and loads. It's just annoying (to some people - others are tickled by the effect) and it quite possibly reduces spool performance a little bit.
    • Oh dear. The panel beating needs to be done before the filler work. Do you have a photo of the dent before you started? Hard enough to not flex and only hit the high spots?  What do you mean it was just temporary? 
    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
×
×
  • Create New...