Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

I am very interested in finding out what an n/a rb25de could make in power when tune. I know that n/a tuning is very pricery compare to a turbo (in the dollar for power value).

Im interested in what would needed to be done to produce something like 250rwhp on an n.a rb25. Also would you beable to increase the rev limiter to something very high like 10,000rpm if you foucs on tuning the n/a side of the engine? (i found that n.a type engine have the characteristic to be able to rev higher for example i know the 4ag is able to produce nice power between the range of 7 to 11,000 rpm after tuning)

The reason for the question is i fine that with turbo comes lot of problems and money issues (pinging etc). I dont plan on swaping anytime soon but interested if what it would cost to produce 250rwhp with a nice rev range in an n.a rb engine.

cheers mike

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54864-na-tuning-vs-turbo-tuning/
Share on other sites

Turbo comes a lot of problems and pinging issues?

Its just a money matter with converting a car over to turbo.

There are no 'problems' or pinging issues unless the car is not running correctly due to a dodgy fuel pump or bad tune.

I wouldn't go to the extent of port/polishing, pistons or balancing for NA. It really would be a huge waste of money as a decent rebuild inc. balancing pistons & port polishing will cost $5000 just for the motor + labour to remove and install which could easily tack on another thousand or two. Then there's the ecu and tuning.. That could easily blow out to another 1500-2000.

Then add on another $1k for cams.

So all up the motor will be worth damn close to $9000 for what??

A motor that makes the same power as a Turbo version WHEN STOCK & running STOCK boost.

I would put up with the n/a until one day you can afford to buy a turbo or simply sell it and buy a V8 Commodore if you want more power. :D

right but if you wish to proceed the best option int to go for an rb 25/30 whihc is rb 25 head on an rb 30 bottom end with goo size cams high compression, head work and aftermarket ecu you could achive your goal.

you could also build an rb 26 as an n/a motor is has been doen the you get a an 8500 9k red line and pretty good power.

but these motor in this state of tune would only last around 20 000 klm if your lucky may be less

meggala

theres no way you will be able to run a 10K rpm limiter on stock internals regardless of the tune or whether its turbo or non turbo

the rods will no doubt snap and mangle themselves, and probably shoot through the block

tensile loads increase exponentially with rpm, so keep that in mind when going over stock limiter

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...