Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The nissan service mechanics recommended a mate of mine to do his first oil change in a new Z at 10000kms. Does this sound right? I thought it would be best to change at 5000kms. What do you think??? Are the new engines designed to be changed at 10000???

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55359-first-oil-change-in-350z/
Share on other sites

The nissan service mechanics recommended a mate of mine to do his first oil change in a new Z at 10000kms. Does this sound right? I thought it would be best to change at 5000kms. What do you think??? Are the new engines designed to be changed at 10000???

Car would be under warranty, so he should follow whatever NIssan recommends (which is presumably what the Nissan mechanics are doing). OTOH, changing the oil earlier should no affect warranty as long as Nissan oil specs are followed (I would also make sure they are happy with that tho, and have it all recorded in the log book).

The 350Z was primarily designed for the USA market and long service intervals are mandated for cars sold in there (but it must be said that long intervals are also specified for recent model Commodes and Falcans). My wifes 1998 RAV4 has a 10,000km specification for oil changes, but I change it every 5000km.

Most car co's these days specify 10-20 k k's service but there is a time frame as well ( 6 -12 months usualy ) . If you drive your car normal ( no short trips no hard driving or dusty conditions) thats fine . Personaly i would do it every 5000 or 3 months though and i would use fully synthetic oil as well .

40 years ago 1000 mile intervals was the norm but oil technology has improved sinse then .

Guest RedLineGTR
The nissan service mechanics recommended a mate of mine to do his first oil change in a new Z at 10000kms. Does this sound right? I thought it would be best to change at 5000kms. What do you think??? Are the new engines designed to be changed at 10000???

Cheers

My mate got a new 350z about 6 months ago, same deal with the 10000 service..thought it was weird but why wouldnt the company know best (running in wise)..since they made the car.

You can dump the oil at 5000ks no problem and probably is a good idea considering all the wear particles from running in are floating around in the oil. I'd stick something in there similar to what they give you at the dealership. Something along the lines of Castrol Magnatec (cos I dont think synthetic is specified by Nissan). After that, i'd be using a proper synthetic like Castrol R 5W30 from then on..

Yeah we saw 10,000klm for ours too.....personally I do the 5000klm change and let nissan do the services so we get those all important stamps in the warranty book :D

Dead easy to do yourself....except there is a plastic undertray held on by about 20 screws...

One other thing....our Z uses a frightening amount of oil...so if you don't change it, keep a very close eye on the levels.....

Yeah we saw 10,000klm for ours too.....personally I do the 5000klm change and let nissan do the services so we get those all important stamps in the warranty book :D

Dead easy to do yourself....except there is a plastic undertray held on by about 20 screws...

One other thing....our Z uses a frightening amount of oil...so if you don't change it, keep a very close eye on the levels.....

How much oil does she use Duncan ? 1 lt every 3000 km ? How many k's on the clock ? Its normal to use a fair bit of oil until the rings bed in but it should settle after 10-15 k k's .

If you drive it hard on the track its going to use more oil of course .

Some gen 3 Holden v8's use 1 lt every 1000 km and they tell them ( Holden ) thats normal .

nah it was in the holden range, about 3l in the first 5000klm it has settled down now though only about 1l per 5000.

Still, if you are the just service it when the light says sort of person you might be down to no oil before the first 10,000klm service :D

Of course it may not of helped that it was about 3500klm old for its first track outing :D

1 lt every 5000 k k's is normal for a high performance engine especialy if you drive it hard .

On the track it will use a lot more though .

You should always check the oil level and not wait until its due for a service to do it .

Taking it to the track at 3500 k wouldn't efect the oil usage one way or another . If you

drive it very easy the rings may never bed in but i wouldn't take it to the track before 1000 k , hard driving when very new may bust a ring .

Holdens use low friction rings for better fuel consumpion and their tolerences are not as tight as nissan .

  • 2 months later...

Hi Duncan

Do you own a Track or Touring?

Just wondering, I have a Track that I'm selling and I need a set of track wheels. I have R34 GTR wheels on it at the moment. I'd do a swap + $2000 if your keen.

or if you have your wheels lying around let me know

Thanks

0419 044 472

Anthony

  • 2 months later...

On a side note, yes the 350Z is designed for long service intervals and to be honest 10,000km is not long at all, especially if you are using a good oil on a n/a engine, albeit a high revving one.

Currently, here in the states Mobil is advetising its new oil range, with 3 different oils with different service intervals, being

7,500 miles = 12,000KM

10,000 miles = 16,000KM

15,000 miles = 24,000KM

So I think the yanks are lazy, that and their fuel is shite, the cars run like a bucket of crap cause no one services them (I am just talking the tri-state area at the moment as I am yet to venture to far into other states).

So I am sure that 10,000km's will be fine, hey change it more regularly if you want, it cannot harm anything!!!

Mmmm id defently be changing at 5000ks or well under that depending on how padentic you are, iv seen 1st hand the deposits of alloy dags and other general production rubish that gets left in the engines oil gallerys.

Remove the filter strip it down and have a close look, you may be extremely supsised of what you find.

oil shoul be changed as reguarly as possible, Its just a matter of how much damage you want to do to your engine as apposed to your wallet...lol

if you are going to change the oil yourself and don't want nissan to 'find out' (re warranty) then be careful of the oil filter. make sure you use a nissan one and check that the original one wasn't orientated specifically to line up with anything... who knows? they might position it specifically to see if people are fiddling with the car...?

alternatively you could just change the oil without the filter (i know its not ideal but its better than not changing the oil, right?)

cheers,

Warren.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even with the piston at TDC there was room for it to drop, but I don't think it can drop fully into the cylinder, the problem you have is that you need something pushing against the valve to hold it up so you have enough room to put the new stem seal on and the spring etc.  I used compressed air only because putting rope in the cylinder seemed a bit risky to me, I know people have done it countless times before like this. Overall it's a pain in the ass job. Honestly you'd probably be better off taking the head off because the risk of dropping something in the engine and the finicky-ness of it all is very stressful. If you are going to attempt it though i 10000% recommend a 36050 valve spring/keeper tool. I had both the traditional lever type and after doing 1 cylinder it was absolute pain to get those valve keepers in place, even with 2 people. That 36050 is amazing, you do have to push hard to get them in place but it works perfectly almost every time. Back to my actual issue I think my engine is just tired and old and the rings have gone bad. The comp numbers (cold, no oil) were: Cyl 1 -129psi Cyl 2 - 133psi Cyl 3 - 138psi Cyl 4 - 137psi Cyl 5 - 157psi Cyl 6 - 142psi   Cylinder 5 and 6 having the most carbon on them.
    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
×
×
  • Create New...