Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sounds like a fancy heading but not really :D

I just bought myself some DBA 4000 Slotted rotors and am trying to work out what brake pad will best suit the rotor

Driving style is generally pretty laid back eg cruising not much heavy braking but on the same token the reason why i got these is to obviously help pull me up them few meters that might save a few hundred $$$.

Does it actually matter what brake pad i get for them or are they all fairly unversal eg doesnt matter if its for slotted or standard...

options so far (without looking into it to much)

Bendix Ultimates (have heard they are dusty but most are)

race brakes now not sure exactly what sort but yea any particular recommendations.

Any advise would be appreciated

I think most people here run rb74 or something.

I've got some gtst m type brakes in my car and I just put in some project m d1 spec on the rear and ns (street type) on the front. They pull up ok but we'll see on the track. I think I should have got the nr or hc but they seem to be ok at the moment.

I don't think getting performance rotors/pads will help pull you up better all that much over stock items in good condition - they'll just mean the 40th time you go round the corner from 200kmh to 120kmh they won't "fade" and leave you looking at a wall or sand trap.

Either way good luck - if you're interested in the project m call andrew from mu's secret. They're import pads and make some good products and for some reason are still well priced against the aussie stuff.

Good luck with your brakes - I also think if you search out some braking threads they'll be people in the thread who specify that they use the same rotor as yours and what pad they use.

Hi Leigh, I have Bendix Ultimates in the road car with DBA slotted rotors and they are very good. No squeel, little dust, consistent stopping power and reasonable price. The race car uses Hawke Carbotics in the blue compound. They have a much higher coefficient of friction, so if the tyres are up to it, the car does stop in a shorter distance. They don't squeel, need a little heat in them, fair amount of dust, wear pretty quickly and the price makes my nose bleed. But the car stops in much shorter distances, the pedal is much easier to modulate, the tyres are up to it and it stops better for a whole 20 minute race.

Even in brake pads, you get nothing for nothing:cheers:

Even in brake pads, you get nothing for nothing

to true :D

i did a bith of a search and ultimates seem reasonable popular. i think the i might give the ultimates a go and see how they fair up :D

thanks for the feedback guys

Running RB74s in the GTR, still managed to give them a fair rodgering at Sandown. Glazed them I think...

Have previously run Endless NA-Ys in the GTSt at Sandown, pedal was still ok at the end.

Now have a set of Endless CC-Rs 'carbon ceramic metals' to go in... probably be noisy as hell... will report back

You might like to try Lucas pads from Gavsport in Sydney. Alternatively Ferodo 2500 is a good compromise. If you are a pretty laid back driver don't go for performance pads whatever you do, they just won't bite as much as organic hipo street ones will.

Has any body heard about "Green Stuff" Brake pads?? i heard that they are really good they retail for around for about $160 an end.

just heard of them and wanted to know if any one had any pro or cons about the "Green Stuff" product range

cheers..

Im using the RB74s, dont really have any probs with them.  Just sit on the brakes going down my street get a little heat in them, after that no worrys.  When they warm up however :)

Quoting my self is bad...

But anyway I thought I should just add, they are REALLLLLY dusty, just my wheels are brake dust colour to start with, so I dont notice it at all.

Quoting my self is bad...

But anyway I thought I should just add, they are REALLLLLY dusty, just my wheels are brake dust colour to start with, so I dont notice it at all.

I have rb74's on the front with standard rotors and i have white wheels.

Well i used to have white wheels:

Apparently EBC as done a major reformulation on their Greenstuffs (now in version 4) to address issues such as rotor warping/scoring and glazing. Also all over the net, scooby guys are raving about their new pad, the Red Stuff Ceramics. (One rally guy said it was better than the DS2500s!) Might be worth looking into...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you pay with a credit card? I'd be putting a charge back through then finding a new sparky to sort it out. 
    • If you mean the alarm immobiliser; theyre internal to the alarm itself which makes that difficult; I couldnt even see where he put it; its not in the same place as last time; but with all black wiring it might be very challenging to trace  I had someone turn the key for me as I know it only primes for a couple of seconds As my post above; I am getting no voltage to the pump at all; but I am testing continuity of the power line (SB) from the pump plug to the relay fine. As well as the negative from the pump plug to a 12V constant.    Yeah; he blammed the no start on a bad battery; said I needed to get a new battery and it'll start. Turns out the battery drained because the tail lights had been on for half the day during the install (the rubber cushion on the brake switch gave out while he was testing it as I have a picture of the car from that morning with the tail lights off..i've replaced that). The battery was turning over the engine just fine for a long time; but got low since lights were draining it so it was too low to test a start after he finished. I bought a new one on his advice...$250 wasted. My original battery charged up just fine and is healthy.    It was running perfectly fine when I messed up the old alarm (programmed out the remotes). He couldnt start it after removing the old alarm; my assumption is that when he unhooked it; he didnt bridge the circuit back when trying to start it. Its always been perfectly fine. The ECU swap and pump were 2 years ago. It's never missed a beat in that time. 
    • This is a big issue for me without the diff. I just have zero drive from the passenger side when drivers side has no traction. Bec's parents place has a crazy steep driveway with odd camber and I have never been able to get up. My bro-in-law's 130i with an (unknown brand) LSD gets up fine as does their dad's Hiace. My car stays at the bottom. We have other odd camber roads around here as we're elevated a bit and if it's raining I can get totally stuck around some hairpins. 
    • Yeah, I am super excited for this.
    • Was the car running before he touched the car?
×
×
  • Create New...