Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Simple questions guys coz i dont know. Thanks for Help... :)

Are rb26 coil packs much better than rb25det(series1) coil packs?

Can you put rb26 coil packs on a rb25det(series1)?

What coil packs should i get for my rb25det(series1) because they are my week point now, its breaking down now that i can run more boost with my hi-flow turbs..

thanks again,

Fane

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55694-coil-packs-question/
Share on other sites

there is nothing wrong with the std coils when they are working, the cheap option is to fix your ones. If its breaking down at higher boost but fine at lower boost, chances are the pack(s) just have a tiny crack in the housing. You can fix this for nothing with some electrical tape.

Splitfires are great, but for a hi-flow application are not a neccessity, and i wouldnt spend 600-900$ on a set if i didnt have to!

cheers for the responses guys...

sly33: its slightly breaking down but its not like when the plugs start missing whenm you havent gapped them close enough....its very soft....could it just be the AFM maxing out?

i have hi-flow turbo @ 12psi, fmic and all the usual bolts ons and a turbo back...stock afm and fuel system... what you reckon?

if everyone still thinks its coils...then where do i put the electrical tape?

fane, it could possibly be your AFM, although if it happens at just 12psi its a bit more unlikely.. obviously you dont have an FC or you could easily check if it was the afm.

id still give the coils an inspection, its not real hard, if you can change plugs you can do it.

So you need to find a crack before you go taping them up!

i dont have the pictures of my coils anymore... if i can remember, at the front (or back, depending on which coil) above where the rubber boot ends there are some raised numbers, its around here that you may find a tiny vertical hairline crack, mine was so small i had to put it under very good light to see it, and even then i wasnt sure if it was actually cracked, but i ran a couple layers of tape around the coilpack body, covering the crack, and straight away it ran perfectly. The one that went was the one closest to the firewall, and the one i checked last! so you may want to start from the back one! I have heard of people finding cracks in nearly all there coils, so have a careful look with a magnifying glass.

fane mate they are all the same to answer you original question, only the rubber stem varies in length between the rb20 25 and 26 and this can be swapped over by simply pulling it off and interswapping to your needs!!!

thanks s13drifter

sly33, i took car for a drive and it starts at 12 an goes all the way up to 16

basically what my car is like is that its just a huge flat spot....HUGE, then about 6400rpm really kicks you in the ass til 7200rpm....

but i just want to know what it could be.... on my SAFC it used to just hit close to 97 and 98% on the airflow, now it hits 100% real early when the flat spot starts, thats what makes me think its the afm.....whats everyone reackon..... ps. AFRs are around 11.8-12

steve, i asked whether they would fit, because i have a 25 and i want to put them in....so in other words it would deffinately fit...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...