Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive upped the ante on the 2530, raising it too 17psi, and now i get a sudden total loss of power in the mid range. As i accelerate hard in 3rd from 3000rpm, i get 1 or 2 sudden losses in power for a split second and then it comes back, its between 4000-5000rpm. Im thinking its the standard AFM to Turbo rubber pipe being sucked in fully and then re-opening under hi boost.

Opinions?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55916-loss-of-power-under-hi-boost/
Share on other sites

I heard SAFC-II does not correct/modify your ignition timing and so that may be the cause??

Your right it doesnt alter ignition timing, but still doesnt explain total power loss. Im not meaning a slight surge, i mean no power.

I think its the AFM

If i reduce the boost by 1psi, it doesnt do it

17psi and stock ecu cant be good, it will just cut the timing and limit stuff

get a remap, check for sale section, $350 swap in swap out, rev limit change, boost remove and speed cut remove, change of timing, ignition and other stuff you may need

Your right it doesnt alter ignition timing, but still doesnt explain total power loss. Im not meaning a slight surge, i mean no power.

I think its the AFM

If i reduce the boost by 1psi, it doesnt do it

I tried to run the RB30DET on the stock RB20T ecu, the fuel cut was hitting with the AFM reaching 60% at 2000-2500rpm & about 8psi of boost.

The AFM wasn't maxing out, but the injectors appeard to be, just before the fuel cut the afr's would go dangerously lean in to the 14:1 AFR.

The ECU was freaking out because the fuel requirements were out of its map (I assume) Either that or the injectors were at 100% duty cycle which is possible as the RB30DET makes more power on 6psi than the rb20det did at the same rev's etc at 11psi due to the much larger valves & ports.

The ECU has to try to raise the duty cycle to get the required fuel in, not as much fuel pressure is being run due to less boost being required to make the same power.

This would also apply to running a larger turbo because the airflow is greater at any given boost pressure compared to the stocker.

If the new turbo makes 200hp at 5psi and the old one made 150hp at 5psi then you will be lacking fuel pressure for that extra 50hp as for the old stock turbo to make 200hp it may need say 8psi which will increase the fuel pressure via the rising rate regulator for that extra 50hp. Hence the injectors don't need to run as much duty cycle.

The base maps are designed around the rising rate fuel pressure regulator & stock turbo (airflow per psi) etc.

As soon as you throw out this airflow per psi and make the car much more efficient be it cams or bigger turbo it will throw things out quite bad as I found out.

lol If that makes sense.

I had the SAFC adjusted to max everything, as much fuel as it could pump in and the AFR's still would not pull in line. It only made the fuel cut hit much much earlier.

It seems to be related to the amount of air the car is sucking (nothing to do with boost) at that particular RPM. The ECU thinks some thing is wrong and first begins to play with the ignition timing (mine dropped from 22degree's to 8 degree with a big power dip at ~6psi) then it fuel cuts if you start sucking even more air (by ~8-9psi).

EVEN if the AFM hasn't maxed out yet.

Get it on a dyno (if you havent already), to check the fueling. It could be the spark plugs, what gap are you running? At that boost it could be that the spark is being blown out, although that would occur more at high rpm? Try plugs one colder than standard and with a maximum of 0.8 gap.

I would say if the ECU hasnt been remapped it will need to be to run 17psi on a bigger turbo.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...