Jump to content
SAU Community

where to get cheap 1/2 cuts in GC or Bris


Recommended Posts

Hi, sorry if this is rehashing on old posts, but i hope that someone else is wanting to ask the same questions as these!

I'm in need of an RB25DET 1/2 cut auto, and am finding it difficult to avoid getting ripped off. For eg, I rang up a place on the GC asking for the RB25det 1/2 cut they had advertised in a mag for $3300, but then they wanted $4000 over the phone. I reckon this is a rip off considering that VIC & NSW importers are selling em around the $3200 mark (from what i've heard)

Any ideas? Anyone know of any "contacts" that i can get in touch with??

Cheers.

Guest Boxhead
Originally posted by Bozza

Hi, sorry if this is rehashing on old posts, but i hope that someone else is wanting to ask the same questions as these!

I'm in need of an RB25DET 1/2 cut auto, and am finding it difficult to avoid getting ripped off. For eg, I rang up a place on the GC asking for the RB25det 1/2 cut they had advertised in a mag for $3300, but then they wanted $4000 over the phone. I reckon this is a rip off considering that VIC & NSW importers are selling em around the $3200 mark (from what i've heard)

Any ideas? Anyone know of any "contacts" that i can get in touch with??

Cheers.

indeed i will be wanting to ask the same question in a while... so people start answering anytime soon :(

Niz180: where's SCS? How do i get in touch with em?

Dave: Yeah but the time you pay for postage u might as well buy local i reckon - plus if it ***s up you can't just take it up the street to get em to have a look.

Also, I need auto cause it's going into an already auto. VL commodore - too much farting around to convert it to manual

Originally posted by dAVE

oops, forgot to say, u may be better of buy engine with loom... then buying an auto box off here. They go for as low as $150 on the forum...

You reckon? I heard to definately go for the half cut, simply cause you've got the extra bits, and wiring/connecting this to that is a lot easier.

How much for just the engine and loom ya reckon, if i was to pick up an auto box from someone here?

I think RMA are no longer. My wife saw there land advertised For Sale/Lease a few weeks ago in the local paper. I drove past there last week and it was empty - not a single car there.

My wife then tried to email them to see if they had moved etc, see if we could get discounts some other how with RMA Club (some club u get free membership with when u buy a car from them - I've never used it) and it came back saying unknow user.

I know that Mr GTR on the gold coast might have one around. He has allways been reasonably priced, but sometimes a little hard to get hold of. You can try him on 07 55735734 or [email protected] ( i think the email is right).

Cheers

Gary

Tried SCS imports, all they had to offer me was an RB25DE auto front cut, not the turbo... but i kinda want the turbo :(

Also tried to call Mr GTR, but no luck... i'll see if i can get him on email.

As for adelaidejap, seems like they've got just about everything - only problem is it's about the same price as it is here, so by the time i ship it up it'll cost too much. Now the problem is trying to FIND the motor I'm looking for in Brisbane or the Coast!!!

Cheers :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...