Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 73
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hi all i am after 2 of these pocket bikes i want the bigest ones you can get i would like a harley or the road bike just after some prices thanks or some info were to get them from cheap i'm in melb

I went to savedirect today... saw some of their goods. This guy was riding a yellow pocket bike and full speed up and down the street, looked mad. He told me the one he was riding costs $800, 49cc Air cooled, Key ignition, Max speed of 60kmph.

What do you guys thik of em?? Reliable?? or a total waste of money?

save direct dont have the best quality bikes.

I just picket this up yesterday ;)

http://www.ozbikes.com.au/browse.php?actio...15&categoryID=1

Which is the new 4 stroke 70cc ones

But i got it for a better price than that advertised.

This thing hauls ass and is alot bigger than the 49cc mini bikes you can get. The speedo reads to 60MPH and riding around my court and nearby park i had it to around 45MPH (72km/h) at the start of 4th, but wasnet going flat out coz for the first few tanks of fuel you need to run the engine in!!!

With the 4 speed semi automatic (clutchless) you can shift at full throttle and it will pop the front wheels in the air in every gear change.

Will get pics of it tonight.

damn that looks nice... but i heard that anything bigger than 49cc needs to be registered or you need a license??

What the deal with your one?

Mate if you know me you would know i dont care about little details like that ;)

It looks like the biggest 49cc bike and i only ride in in the park and on deserted roads.

Hey mate how much did you pay for this bike if you dont mind telling me i have been looking on ebay and been to a few stores but they variy so much in price and most of them look the same. anyone know were to get a good cheap one from thanks

Not yet but close, once nearly head butted a car turning into my court and another one hit a pot hole on a foot path in the park at about 70 km/h and went off on the grass but stayed on the bike, luckly it has hydraulic suspension otherwise it would have ended in tears!!!

is it more fun to drive than your skyline? :D

Na, it a total different type of experience!!

martydaman

Since cops still think a bov has something to do with the exhaust then they are not going to know the difference between a 49cc and 70cc bike!!!

plus i know sfa about bike engines either!!

martydaman

Since cops still think a bov has something to do with the exhaust then they are not going to know the difference between a 49cc and 70cc bike!!!

plus i know sfa about bike engines either!!

Good point, is the 70cc model bigger than the 49's?? coz im not buyin one of those puny ones where your knees can smack you in the face whilst racing

Finially got some pics of the bike last night after i changed the oil to some full synthetic 4 stroke oil!!

Rode around for about 3 hrs on sunday with 2 mates with 49cc mini bikes in local industrial estate with long straights and fast corners and even with my heavy carcus kicked their asses easily. Most times on the long straights i could pull around 15-20 bike lenghts on them, they would catch me a little in the corner coz my bike is double the weight of theirs and not as easy to turn, and the fact that i was going nearly double the speed of theirs into the corner before braking, and i was hitting speeds of near 85-90km/h down the main straights.

The 4 speed gearbox makes such a difference and the 70cc engine has so much more torque and top end than the 49cc ones, and 1 of the 49cc ones had a few modifications, and mine was 100% stock!!

I am looking at some modifications for mine but since the bike is new on the market most of the available parts for my engine are only in the USA. There is a supercharger kit for the 4 strokes available in aus which at 8psi gives 10hp power gain. That would make my bike total about 14KW and weigh with me on board around 135kg.

Word to the wise:

When someone crashes the bike your about to ride just before you venture out onto the track on it, remember to make sure the tank/seat/tail assembly is still firmly attached to the frame of the bike.

I low-sided BADLY last night with the throttle pinned wide open coming out of a fast right hander onto the back straight at my local go-kart track. Tank/seat/tail assembly fell clean off and me with it!

My knee and elbow hurt real bad!! :)

Fark it was fun though!!

Adrian

I have already come off once on sunday in the industrial estate trying to take a left hander to fast and with the back wheel locked trying to slide through the corner, and only scraped the right hand side fairing a bit and added a small crack to it also. I only got a slight scratched elbow. 1 of my friends on the 49cc mini bike tried to pop a mono and ended up flipping the bike and scraping the whole back of his bike and denting the exhaust muffler and having bleeding elbows and knees for his effort!!

Of course we stood there laughing at him for about 5 mins before we went to see if he was ok :)

I think you guys should start wearing leathers man....

then, start to lean like Rossi... with knee... would look rather hilarious on photo :headspin:

I have already come off once on sunday in the industrial estate trying to take a left hander to fast and with the back wheel locked trying to slide through the corner, and only scraped the right hand side fairing a bit and added a small crack to it also. I only got a slight scratched elbow. 1 of my friends on the 49cc mini bike tried to pop a mono and ended up flipping the bike and scraping the whole back of his bike and denting the exhaust muffler and having bleeding elbows and knees for his effort!!

Of course we stood there laughing at him for about 5 mins before we went to see if he was ok :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...