Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey fellars my R32 gts-t runs quite rich in the hot summers. A friend told me that standard turbo cars run rich to get the pistons to cool down (usgin petrol as the extra cooling device).

My car is running 12 pound boost with stock everything expcept for the exhaust.

She is also backfireing alot. Which is mosty likeley more un burnt petrol and Ocasional stalls , like flooding the motor.

Now what would be best way to resolve this problem.

Would a new Front Mount Intercooler do the trick , Something alot bigger than the stock intercooler so it can cool the extra air im pushing into the motor?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56329-running-rich-in-the-heat/
Share on other sites

fmic wont make it less rich at all, what your looking for is a safc for the cheaper option but if you have ideas for you car later on then look at a pfc or another ecu....

safc is great for fixing your afrs for everytime you get a mod and has been fine for me for ages until i got my hi-flow turbo :(

Would a simple remap of the stock ECU be sufficient.

How hard is it to patch in the safc.

Also how much can u get an safc for?

Im not realy looking to modify my car to much. I realy dont want to spend that much money on a car.. yet :-)

Are safc hard to use?

safc is easy to use but you need something to monitor your afrs to tune it, so you need to get on a dyno or something like that.

price is about ~350 second hand prolly less i suppose and nengun has them new for for 410 plus shipping....

easy to put in your car....all the instructions are there and all the bits....i put mine in, in about 30 mins...

i suggest a safc if you dont plan on doing huge things to your car....you can get a fmic later and a dump pipe and you will have a resonably fast car, especially for price of mods.

ps. remap of ecu will work, but it will probably cost you just as much and you wont have a nice thing in your cabin to look at and a a monitor to look at your knock sensor and other cool features like that. Plus once you have got the safc and then your get a mod (eg. fmic) then you can just tune your safc easy, rather than having to get another remap.

Sime how much did u pay for your SAFC?

I had a quick browse on ebay, Might have a look @ the classifieds.  Thanx.

I paid $420 for mine about 6 months ago. I bought it off a guy here in Melbourne who claimed to have bought it then decided on a PFC. It had never been used so it was a pretty sweet deal compared to buying from a shop here.

i paid 460 a little while ago but mine is a d1 edition, looks a bit different but does the same thing.....only 1000 in the world....

safc2 is deffinately an awesome upgrade when doing bolt on mods to your car like fmic and exhaust and stuff like that....

AFRs stand for Air Fuel Ratios

safc2 also has and air correction bit in it that stops the car running out of air whichs causes the pop and stall symptoms....like others said, its usually caused by a/m bov's venting to atmo...

i just sold my safc2 for 390....im upgrading to pfc because of hi-flow turbo...i need ignition timing... but other than that safc is definately best upgrade i got...because it makes you use all the upgraded boost and fmic and exhaust to its best efficiency....prolly gain some fuel economy aswell as definately getting some power....

I like the look of the SAFC II

is there any advantages the microtech Itx8 has over the SAFC II?

What's price like on the Itx8?

What's the best way to tune your SAFC aswell is it a must to have it done on a dyno?

How do you initialy set it up. Is there like default maps already on ther?

Does read stock maps and then lets u change them on the SAFC?

I probably wont make a move on this till after christmas, but I'd like to know what i'm in for and what I need to do.

mircotech is a whole ecu and its not plug and play so you have to wire it in.... its a big job and worth quite a bit in labour....aswell as initial price....turbocharging6 is just saying that he would prefer it over the pfc i believe....

safc only changes stock map by correction....so if there is no correction to stock map there is no change... so thats easy....and you need to tune it with something that monitors afrs....like a dyno or the thing that hangs off your exhaust....

Ok fane.

Thanx again.

So basicaly when u first hook an SAFC it will not do anything until u make a modification / correction to the actual map.

Hmmm, I think the SAFC is the option for me. So when i get it is probably best to book it in on a dyno for a tuning.

A few things I used to install the SAFC.

Stanley Knife

25w Soldering Iron

Low melting point solder

Flux Pen (Makes solder stick to wires easily)

Liquid insulating tape (So easy and tidy)

The AFM wire; I used connectors male & female so I could connect it all back up easy for when I remove the SAFC.

The rest of the wires you simply run the stanley knife around the wire to cut the plastic around 5mm apart. Run the stanley knife along the wire between the two cuts and peel off the insulating plastic.

Twine the SAFC wire around the ecu wire.

Hit it with some flux & melt some solder on the soldering iron and dab it on the wire.

It will stick easily.

Smooth it out a little & apply a couple coats of the insulating liquid gear.

I'm generally not the best with soldering irons but found it rather easy. :(

Took me around 1.5hrs.

Buy a second hand SAFC and sell it when your finished. They hold their value fairly well.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...