Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 148
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Originally posted by kabab

Just a quick question;

What do you have for the R32 gtst type M range (4 pot front calipers same as 300zx TT)

Are the slotted rotors available ?

The R32 GTSt takes the same rotor as the 300zx as well, which is available in slotted. DBA 909

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5677-disc-rotors/page/4/#findComment-94213
Share on other sites

For those interested in such things, I put in a set of Ferodo DS 2500 pads front and rear before the track day yesterday. WOW they are good! No fade on any of the laps I did.

I also had the discs machined before putting the new pads in. What a difference this made! Even with the old pads the brakes felt much much better. Well worth it and highly recommended.

Give Reece a call at Any Disc and Brake on 0418 249 166. He only does the North Shore I think, and will do home jobs on the weekend. For $45 you can't afford NOT to do it.

If you don't want to take off your wheels and calipers yourself give PR Technology at Brookvale a call on 9905 6316 and they will quite happily arrange it for you! (shameless plug for mates workshop :P ).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5677-disc-rotors/page/4/#findComment-95725
Share on other sites

Originally posted by the devil

Steve,

I have an 1989 R32 M-spec.  I believe part numbers front 909 and rear 908. Is this right?  

Is there any difference between the m-spec versions and the non m-spec ones?. I thought the m-spec models had larger calipers :eek:???  

Thanks in advance...

The R33 GTS has 3 different rotors depending on the spec and the R32 GTR has a rotor for the Nissan caliper and a larger one for the Brembo caliper.

The R32 GTS as far as I know only has one disc type which is the DBA 909 fr, DBA 908 rr.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5677-disc-rotors/page/4/#findComment-97041
Share on other sites

Originally posted by kabab

There is a difference non M spec's have 2pot front brakes M spec's have 4pot.

I would imagine the rotors on the 2 pots would be much smaller.

I am going to scream!..:D

Kabab,

Do you have the M Spec R32 GTS?

If so can you tell me if it uses the Nissan 4 Piston caliper with DB1170 pads?

I think this disc could be the 296mm x 30mm disc as per the R33 GTSt

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5677-disc-rotors/page/4/#findComment-97258
Share on other sites

Not seen in too many parts of the world, the Skyline HCR32 GTS-t was a Japan only model, in Type M spec it has a 2L turbo 6 cylinder, producing 220hp as standard. With a few modifications the stock turbo is capable of producing up to 260hp, in Japan the RB20DET has been worked to 450hp by taking the displacement out to 2.4L, bigger turbos and other modifications.

Other Type M features include 4 pot front calipers in the front and 2 pot calipers in the rear, with a curious additional drum brake arrangement for the park brake, Hicas 4 wheel steering system that helps stabilise the rear coming out of the coner, Viscous LSD and a rear wiper. The Type M represents the top of the line of the GTS range.

Sound familiar!

We could make this a game show......"Name that Skyline":D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5677-disc-rotors/page/4/#findComment-97275
Share on other sites

Originally posted by fatz

steve

you had me drooling at those two peice rotors at the track.

what is the part number for r32 gtr standard (non Brembo setup)

so i can get a price  

thanks m8

pete

ps im the clown with thr 32 gtr... dont hold it against me

lol

The R32 GTR with Nissan calipers is DBA 926 ( 296mm x 32mm).

I know who you are! The guy with the fossilised rear rotors.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5677-disc-rotors/page/4/#findComment-97310
Share on other sites

Originally posted by red900ss

So the 32mm and 30mm are the same part no. Steve (i.e. DBA 926)?

Hmmmm! Confusion.:D

The R32 GTR = 32mm DBA 926

The R33 GTSt = 30mm DBA 9?? (Still Waiting)

Fatz is your car a GTR or GTSt? I thought it was a GTSt but your signature says R32 GTR.

Our guy that does the catalogue entries is banging his head on the floor because of these Skylines.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5677-disc-rotors/page/4/#findComment-97320
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...