Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got about 6k to go b/4 due for timing belt and although this won't be in the immediate future, need to be prepared as I've heard that a major service is done at that time. Not sure what the major service entails but need to know roughly what kind of $$ I'm going to be up for. Got paint job and graphics on Beddy van coming up early in the new year and been trying like hell to get the 3" system on the line but something always comes up. The Beddy has burnt up a lot of $$ of late, new wheels and tyres, new rad and installed twin electric fans, 3" zorst (did it myself) and fitted high riser that I've had laying around for a couple of years and a larger fuel tank (400 Chevys are thirsty). Yeah, the Beddy has kept me broke of late, luckily I do most of the work myself otherwise I'd be on bread and water for nutrition.

Anyway, any clues on the belt and major service work costs would be much appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/57791-almost-timing-belt-time/
Share on other sites

I was told there is a sticker on the radiator or something which is put on there when the timing belt is done.... its can be used as an indicator to see if the km's are false as well.

Anyway - alot of people drive over the 100 000k's with no probs, but then again it can be a pretty big risk to let it go. Big $$ in repairs if it goes bang.

Call Ken at Hyperdrive - 9209 3100 - they are in Malaga

or Steve at SST 9470 1115 - they are in Welshpool.

Both shops look after SAU guys well. Give them a call for a quote.

stop talking about beddy the ****.

timing belt's can be expensive, but seriously, i've done well over 100k's and not changed the belt yet! (i dont believe the jap sticker that says they changed it)

anyone know ? might get it done myself?

I like my Beddy van :D

Seriously tho', I had the timing belt snap on my 626 several years ago @ 120k. Didn't know they had to be changed at the time, so will not neglect the line on this issue.

I was told there is a sticker on the radiator or something which is put on there when the timing belt is done.... its can be used as an indicator to see if the km's are false as well.

Anyway - alot of people drive over the 100 000k's with no probs, but then again it can be a pretty big risk to let it go. Big $$ in repairs if it goes bang.

Call Ken at Hyperdrive - 9209 3100 - they are in Malaga

or Steve at SST 9470 1115 - they are in Welshpool.

Both shops look after SAU guys well. Give them a call for a quote.

Thanx Liz and gR33ddy, will keep that in mind, but for now just wondering what people have spent with changing belt and other major service items, whatever they may have been.

I completed a service and timing belt change on my R33 about 4 weeks ago.

I spent about $330 just on parts.

This included;

$135 for non-genuine timing belt

$95 for 6 NGK iridium plugs to suit RB20DET (they run cooler)

$10 for ryco oil filter (prob couldve got better)

$70 for oil (I think - cant remember exactly)

$20 for fuel filter

I didnt have to change brake pads or replace any rubbers or joints and I didnt have any exhaust/cooling/intake issues either.

two weeks ago I had a power fc installed and the car tuned and it is running very smooth (and responsive!).

Your general service costs (for parts) will be similar or more(depending on the products you use) and your total cost will depend on the condition of your car (obviously) and the mechinic or service agent you choose.

the timing belt is recommended 100K for a good reason - if it stuffs up then you could be up for $$$$loads.

I found a supplier who can get me the original (nissan) skyline belt for $105 - just after I spent the $$$$ on the non-genuine one.(Its always the way!)

I have about 82K on my car and i thought that it would be a good(safe) time to do the replacement.

I have looked around for timing belts and this is the best price that I could find.

Hope this info is usefull.

:D

Hey guys, timing belt is not hard to change, just allow yourself plenty of time and an air ratchet for the crank pulley as it's normally way too tight for any ring spanner.

Just make sure that you mark the all the pulleys (cams+crank) before you remove the current belt, unless your pulleys are already marked of course, loosen the tensioner and you're away.

If theres anything I can help anyone out with, PM me and I'll do my best.

:D

Hey guys, timing belt is not hard to change, just allow yourself plenty of time and an air ratchet for the crank pulley as it's normally way too tight for any ring spanner.

Just make sure that you mark the all the pulleys (cams+crank) before you remove the current belt, unless your pulleys are already marked of course, loosen the tensioner and you're away.

If theres anything I can help anyone out with, PM me and I'll do my best.  

:)

Yep same here, did the timing belt by myself at home, wasnt to hard took about 3-4hours just to make sure it was all right. ended up putting the timing belt on just one tooth out and the car ran like a dog though. Didnt take much to fix it up.

If the rest of the car is running fine I wouldnt bother changing spark plugs and the like.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes I can see how that would put you off HFM, especially with the price of good quality brake fluid. From what I understand it as you say the BM50 is the standard BMC for a R32 GTR, I must admit I would like to go far a Genuine Nissan BM57, but lack of cash prevents that at present. With the price being so close between the genuine BM50 and BM57 a BM57 New it seems a better choice as you gain that 1/16 bore size with the BM57, I would be interested in how much difference you feel with the BM57 fitted. I am going to take SteveL's advice in the short term and see how much actually comes out of that proportioning valve vent and save up for the Genuine Nissan part. Thanks for clarifying the HFM failure
    • Thanks mate. I just got the post inspection 1/2 done from state roads when the starter motor packed up, either that or the car alarm system is having trouble.  OEM part number 23300-AA112.
    • Hi, I though I was coming to an end in finding a replacement starter motor for a rb25de neo. I came across a starter motor from Taarks and a message below stating: Direct fit. 11 Tooth count. All below part numbers have been superseded to 11 teeth. Can some body shed some light on going from 8 teeth to 11 teeth apart from 36-month / 25,000 km warranty for passenger vehicles to 12 Month Warranty. Compatible with the following Nissan part numbers: 23300-20P00 23300-20P01 23300-20P05 23300-20P10 23300-20P11 23300-AA111 23300-AA112 23300-AA300 23300-08U10 23300-08U11 23300-08U15  
    • Low battery? Maybe check capacity? I know first-hand, on BMWs if your battery drops below 80% capacity, it starts causing strange issues.
    • 8.5 +37 = should fit rear, but I think it'll hit on front. What you want is low 30s/high 20's front, mid 30's rear. That 17" screenshot you posted looks good, I'd run it on my R32 (but that's long dead now). For tyre sizes, my rule of thumb is: 8': 235, 9": 255. But that's just my opinion. Nismo sizes: 18x8.5+35/18x9.5+38 is a good starting point.
×
×
  • Create New...