Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

ok i got this 193 80 about 2 months ago, ive always wanted a r33 to cruise around in...this is my 3rd 180 so im startin to get over them...this 180 has been serviced every 5000kms, i no the previous owner as well...a mate from buzzengines that if anyone knows buzzengines do extemely great work on cars...and adam from there is number 1 aus tunner for haltech.

engine-

sr20det redtop with 158kms

td06 turbo

hks external wastegate 62mm i think

screamer pipe...RAHHHH

HKS zaurst loud

pod

custom manifold

blitzz dd bov

catch can

cooling-

custom fmic about 500long

2x 12inch thermos

computer-

haltech computer NEW version

haltech boost controller

haltech ignition ignitor

haltech laurnch control.

suspension/drive chain

coil overs which are damper adjustables

huge 16inch rims which look tha bit

strenghened gearbox

brass button clutch

other-misc-

speco boost gauge

speco oil temp gauge

speco water temp gauge

5inch monster taarco

trust gearnoOB

momo steerin wheel p/f

snap on seat covers :P

LOOKS-body work

flared front guards

vented guards

veilside rear bar

veilside side skirts

Currently getin painted like commadore green

but more sparkles and abit darker. BRAND NEW

Spoilerless ;)

no rear wipper ;)

stereo- OMG LOUD

eclipse headunit (1g)

some front speakers

pionner 6x9s which go hard

eclipse amp 4chanel which is like 1g

12inch box ported which is about 50litres

12inch PG sub..phinox gold

made 147.2 db.

this car ran a 12.8 on 15inch with doodgy tyres

i reakon i could run a low 12 with the tyres i have now

even a 11 with slicks

car has 230rwkw on 12psi...turbo only really kicks in at 16psi were buzz seem to think it will make close to 300.

engine is in great condition. no wear or tear at all.compresion is all in 150s so brand new ...well u no itsbeen looked after since its been at buzz.

lookin for a modded or slighty modded skyline for trade...

in my eyes.... the car has alot of potential...spend 200 dollars for a 16psi map and u will have a crazy African American ass car :P.

lookin for about 20 grand..but im open for offers...may even consider another car..

Cheers Adam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/57986-heavy-modded-180would-trade-for-r33/
Share on other sites

carnt really send pics as the car is just bout to get painted so it looks like a asshole...:(

its like wat any other 180 looks like guys imagine that..pics will be up in about a week.

depends how well modded ur 32 is etc...send mods and pics to [email protected]

i dont want people wasting my time askin for pics so people that are only serious talk to me

sorry to sound rude but meh..i hate it :)

Cheers Adam

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...