Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im bringing my car over the first wek of Feb, fingers crossed with a re-tune and new exhaust ill be pushing out close to 240-250rwkws:) Maybe we dont need the 300cc, but hopefully we dont have wild wheelspin either:)...and fingers crossed it lives and the old $600 RB20 provides plenty of fun:)

heheh.. Not directed at you Roy.. :(

Considering you use your 32 for a lot of track work it does make me wonder if it really is worth building up a motor??? Would you get that much more life out of the rebuilt motor to warrant building it up over cheap second hands. :D

1 rebuilt motor is close to 5-6 second hand motors.

woo up there ice cube..

1. suggestions about my RB24 build.

i have some people to prove wrong.

if i still had my RB25de i would have built a 25/30 a long time ago.

i would love a 30 but i decided to go the 24 route because i just did.

5-6psi more boost will be overcome by higher CR

other than that a 20 sounds better.

DANGEROUS_DAVEO: i prefer beef wrapped in bacon

P.S. MMOOOOOOO

...Considering you use your 32 for a lot of track work it does make me wonder if it really is worth building up a motor??? Would you get that much more life out of the rebuilt motor to warrant building it up over cheap second hands. :(

 

1 rebuilt motor is close to 5-6 second hand motors.

LOL...its part expense, its part value. The track is great fun whether you are doing 1:30s or 1:26s, so if i keep popping RB20s (I suspect from about Feb onwards all the tomm fullery/butchery will be fixed on my car), so not expecting any more problems.

If the engine croaks then ill at least be comfortable that i know the limits of the RB20...i have my thoughts but thats all they are:(

If you want to go genuinely quick the RB20 can do it. But the dollars dont add up and you have to seriously consider stepping up to a bigger RB. BUT... If you want heaps of fun, and not be living in fear of popping/overheating etc etc an RB26 then RB20s rock:)

Dont have to be the quickest, just wear the biggest smile:) So 6-8 grand to get 3-4 seconds quicker, then i think about how many track days 6grand buys me...lol have you seen Pumping Iron where Arnies talks about lifting weights every day is like cumming...well 6 grand is a sh1t load of track days and i suspect it would have a similar effect on me:)

Im in SA for the next 3 weeks, so bring on Mallala:)

If you want to go genuinely quick the RB20 can do it. But the dollars dont add up and you have to seriously consider stepping up to a bigger RB. BUT... If you want heaps of fun, and not be living in fear of popping/overheating etc etc an RB26 then RB20s rock:)

Dont have to be the quickest, just wear the biggest smile:)  So 6-8 grand to get 3-4 seconds quicker, then i think about how many track days 6grand buys me...lol have you seen Pumping Iron where Arnies talks about lifting weights every day is like cumming...well 6 grand is a sh1t load of track days and i suspect it would have a similar effect on me:)

Im in SA for the next 3 weeks, so bring on Mallala:)

Well said there Roy !!

never really looked at it that way but it makes alot of sense.

with RB20s being cheap there is a big gap between rebuilding and a second hand motor costs.

If we were talking RB26, its a shit load more expensive.

Thing is you could theorectically push the stock bottom end pretty far. I think a few of you guys are accepting that they blow up when making a certin power output. I think with a decent tune, you would make the same power but have the engines last a fair bit longer. And well $600 isnt much compaired to a full proper rebuild, but its still a fair wack of money and a fair bit of time wasted changing over the bottom ends.

Exact thing a mate had problems with, bad tune, didnt change anything but pulled out 2deg of timing and the thing never blew up, same power tho.

Thing is you could theorectically push the stock bottom end pretty far.  I think a few of you guys are accepting that they blow up when making a certin power output.  I think with a decent tune, you would make the same power but have the engines last a fair bit longer.  And well $600 isnt much compaired to a full proper rebuild, but its still a fair wack of money and a fair bit of time wasted changing over the bottom ends.

I do not know of a single RB20 with around 240-250rwkws that gets driven on street and track...but i agree about the strength of the RB20,

I suppose this year will be the litmus test, though when the mechanic installed the new engine they didnt throw a new timing belt on the car, and there seems to be some idler bearing noise so may change them too...hate to lose an engine because a mishap up front with ancillaries:(

Unfortunately i don't live within 900kms of a race track, so if something does go bang at the track, it is long way to push my car back home.

My motor was fully rebuilt (std)a few months ago. but my dad put a bit of it together, due to my work commitments. anywho, he didn't check the ring gap cause he thought i did, and i hadn't yet. so the end result is low compression in all, and oil in number 1. hence why i want to do it properly this time.

My new list of parts are: Tomei 82mm pistons

Tomei 1mm head gasket

Tomei cam gears X2

HKS GTRs kit

other stuff: Bore engine

new exhaust gasket

gates timing belt

ECU remap

New rear tyres

ROY: idler bearings are $120 for idler $160 for tensioner i think from memory

its turbo i believe, t66/7. Not exactly sure. Built motor such as pistons rods bearings cams plenum ecu inj pump and other little things.

Roy: from the ones i have seen they just get tired after 300rwhp. Blow starts to occur then knocking then you know finish time. A friend had one with over 300rwhp and standard ecu but with a plug in chip, thrashed 24/7 for a good yr then got tired and blow by then knocking then finished.

a mates mate has an R32 and his RB20 has put out 480hp on the dyno... with 30psi and tolulene... but was prolly C16.

thats some bullshit power... i didnt believe it but apparently its spun up 400+hp on a few dyno's so i just dont know.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well you could certainly buy or build an enclosure for a pod in that corner of the bay. It is absolutely vital that there is a nice big opening to let cold air in to it from the front or underside, otherwise it will just pull air in around the edges from the bay, and if that air is hot, you gain nothing from enclosing the pod. There is lots of good evidence around (including on here, see posts by @Kinkstaah for example) showing that pods pulling hot air from the bay is only a problem when you're static or slow in traffic, and that as soon as you get the car up and moving the air being grabbed by the pod cools down. Although that will obviously vary from car to car, whether there is a flow of cold air to the pod or if it all has to come through the radiator area, etc etc. Obviously, the whole exercise requires as much thought as anything else does. Doing the lazy thing will often end up being the dumb thing. The stock GTT airbox has a cold air snorkel to feed it from over the radiator. Shows that Nissan were thinking. The GT airbox is upside down compared to the turbo one, yeah? Inlet at the bottom, AFM/exit on the lid? That might make it harder to route the turbo inlet pipe using the GT airbox than a turbo one. That would probably be the main reason I'd consider not using it, not that it is too small and restrictive. I'm looking at a photo of one now and the inlet opening seems nice and large. Also seems to have the same type of snorkel that the turbo one has. Maybe all that's required is to make a less restrictive snorkel/cold air inlet, perhaps by punching down through the guard like I did.
    • Also seen this as an option 
    • I get you, we’ll see I’m aiming for 200ish kw now and hopefully 300rwkw down the line after some upgrades maybe like headstuds, E85 flex fuel etc  so trying to make it final for that now, I can get a GTT airbox for $280 so it’s not too bad but not sure if there’s better ways to spend that money. I seen online they say pod filter which isn’t enclosed isn’t good especially for a plus T.      hard to say what to do
    • Meh. How much power can you make from a +T anyway? I wouldn't have though it would be enough to challenge the airbox. It's not as if it's tiny compared with the turbo one. As to putting a pod in a stock airbox .... it's not the filter element that would be restrictive. It would be the air inlet to the box that would be the narrow point, which you could open up regardless of what element was inside. On my R32 I opened up the sort of triangular opening in the bottom front corner of the box, deformed (heated, moulded) some 4" stormwater pipe to fit to that opening and punched a 4" hole down through the inner guard to the spot where the stock intercooler used to be. This was purely in the search for a cold intake, but you could do something similar if you need to open up the inlet side of it. The AFM tube size is the same for both NA and turbo, so the outlet from the airbox is same same anyway. If you're going to do the right thing, then an aftermarket ECU won't care about the AFM (ie, you can get rid of it). But even if it was still there, people pull >300rwkW through them all day, and I suspect you won't be going there.
    • R34 RB25de Neo by the way ^ 
×
×
  • Create New...