Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey hows it going i just got myself a nissan skyline r33 1994 gts25det

it is so ****ing nice and i just got it back from a brand new paint job - black

new GTR body kit

and all this

but the trouble im having is it doesnt like starting in the mornings and as from now it doesnt like starting anytime i have to turn the key and wait like 10secounds

and say for example im driving when i come to a stop the car stalls WTF!!!

before it was just having trouble starting in the mornings now its stalling when i come to a stop... if i dont keep the revs up around 2 the car just dies

and i have to like gear down when stopping and put it in netural and brake with the handbrake so it doesnt stall

i took it to my mechanic he changed the Pod filter, played around with the settings dino tuned it all this shit and said its fixed but when i went to pick it up it was good for about 2hours then just started doing it again

if this helps with solving the problem

when i have the car running if it doesnt stall (cause sometimes its idles and doesnt die straight away it dies after 10secounds

but i was playin around trying to work out what it could be

and if this helps

when i turn the car off with the handbrake off it turns off straight away

and when i turn the car off with the handbrake on it stays on even tho the keys are out... (WTF...) yeah i know i got a turbo timer

but is that set wrong (its a apexi turbo timer shaped like a rechtangle)

but WHY IS IT DYING

its been back for 2weeks and i send it back again 1 more week

OH come pick it up its ready

i come all the way out 40mins drive

and works but then dies 2hours later contiunus

i cant work it out

im gonna try the battery but i dont think its that cause when it cuts out the lights everything stays on like its on acc 1-2-3-4 (2) or start 3 without engine

i dunno cant work it out

PLEASE HELP THIS IS KILLIN ME'

ANY IDEAZ???

I Was tould could be a air flow meter... but today we took off the pipes and used a cleaning agent to try fix the problem but nope could it be the starter motor... but then that would be trouble starting in the morning only, i dunno

when i first got it... it started quicker but it seems like its getting worse and worse

and all this shit started happening when my car pissed out with coolent from the overflow cause the value closed cause the car got too hot or something and then it wouldnt allow me to run the car after filling back up with coolent

and it was running really shit

could it have ****ed the computer or some electrics

i dunno

PLEASE HELP ME AY

[email protected]

I Use MSN Messener Also

Thankyou SAU

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/58353-help-skyline-doesnt-like-mornings/
Share on other sites

but the trouble im having is it doesnt like starting in the mornings  

ANY IDEAZ???

I don't like starting in the mornings either but hey who does?! :(

Does sound like a shagged battery though, replace it with a mates and see if that helps, probably the best bet and easiest thing to try for starters...

Stalling/other problems when cold could be the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) also known as the Auxillary Air Control (AAC) valve, do a search on either of those and you'll find heaps of posts about the problems they can cause and how to fix them.

Also have a look at this site which has info on how to fix them:

http://www.gt-skyline.net/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...