Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The first number is the COLD viscosity, the second is the HOT viscosity. The oils have additives to change the viscosity with changing temperature.

Its debatable how low you need the cold viscosity. a low number means that the oil will be circulated quickly from a cold startup. But a higher number (thicker when cold) is likely to hang around better, so not need the ability to quickly circulate when cold.

I think the quick circulation factor usually wins out.

A 5 is really the lowest you [b:adb267e0b1]need[/b:adb267e0b1] to go in Oz, unless you are up at Perisher or something (then you might need a -5).

Probably what's more important is the API specification (like SG/CF or something like that) I think the latest is something like SJ/CF (anyone?), and indicates the level of protection that the oil gives. The 'no brand' oils (KMart, etc) are often only SG or SH API specs, so steer clear of them.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/584-oils-for-skylines/#findComment-14203
Share on other sites

Yeah, SJ/CF is the current standard. SJ is expected to increase to SK in the future but the diesel rating, CF is expected to stay the same for some time.

For more info:

http://www.salemboysauto.com/faqs/faq-29.htm

Recently, I've been hunting around to find the reconmended oil type for Skylines. Mobil Japan suggests 5w50 or 0w40 for all 2.5L-3.0L multicam turbo engines. (I think... I can't read Japanese :P ). Heres a pic for reference:

http://www.mobil.co.jp/club_mobil_1/lineup/lineup.html

0w40 is probably only meant for the colder parts of Japan, but Mobil Australia also suggests 0w40 for the R32 GTR (the only Skyline on their list as it was locally delivered).

Mobil Aus GTR sheet:

http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/mobil_au/d...ke=36&Model=820

I'm going to hazard a guess and say, for all turbo twincam RB's, 0w40 during winter (in cold areas) and 5w50 otherwise.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/584-oils-for-skylines/#findComment-14204
Share on other sites

I have been using the Mobil 1 0W40 for about a year now. Good stuff.

This is not the same Mobil 1 that K-Mart etc sell. It's a grade above that. You may have to order it in from a Mobil supplier.

It's about $16/litre but it's worth it.

When I get the Mobil sock number I'll post it up.

Most of the Nissan dealers sell the oil filters for about $7-$8. Better than the Repco price (about $12).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/584-oils-for-skylines/#findComment-16518
Share on other sites

I didn't realize Mobil1 0w/40 was that expensive. Royal Purple 5w/x is also around $16 a quart (~1 litre).

Oil filters... I always use genuine parts instead of the Ryco equivalent. When it comes down to it, Nissan is interested in making their engines last, while Ryco is interested in profit. Plus, the fact that genuine oil filters are cheaper doesn't hurt :cheers:

For reference in Perth, Royal Purple is sold by Lance Distributors (9458 2239) and Red Line is distributed by Red Line Oils (9446 4455).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/584-oils-for-skylines/#findComment-16892
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have done a lot of research before posting here and on gtruk forum. couldn't find anything. I have my gauges all part except the needle itself. the needle has a extremely small hole in the center, but the shaft going to the needle is extremely small and appears to have nothing to index it either. doesn't seem strong enough to simple pry or pull without damaging something. Already tried the old spoon trick on a extra triple meter I have from a gtt, but no luck. the center cap comes off easily but the hole in the meter face plate aren't big enough to get over the needle itself. figured this would be my best place to find someone who might have actually removed theirs. wonder if there is some type of small pin press tool to push the pin in while pulling the needle base off.
    • Ok...its taking me long enough to finally do this.  Feck financial security...heart disease will get me soon enough anyway So welcome to the garage..."Clem" Belsil80 has been running a 370Z in Super TT series. So after entering with him in last years Winton 300 i figured I  need my own car. Seems SAU Vic race cars need to be yellow....{tick} Reckon with enough motor i will be able to make up for the lack of talent and stay ahead of the 370Z... but the LS powered S13 and E36s are a ways up the road Aim is to have a car that doesnt stop or turn but has a bit of shed built motor with jam...maybe some cream  First step is getting this ex drift car log booked I am keeping faithful silver car. As the road-club car gets upgrades the race car wil get the sloppy seconds
    • Assuming that they will come off without damage at all.... i would have thought just pull straight up off the spindle with a something or other than can reach underneath. Have you searched for youtube vids of people doing similar on R34s or any other Nissan from the same vintage? They should be the same technique, in all likelihhood.
    • Keeping in mind that sandblasting is really aggressive on softer metals like cast alloy, and you can do damage that you might regret. For trash wheels, not a problem. For wheels with value/scarcity issues, etc.... perhaps a less aggressive media is a better choice?
    • Don't get all high and mighty. Experienced spanner wielders know exactly what effort is required to release an Oof.
×
×
  • Create New...