Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

given a few of you are knowledegable about R32s I need help! My car's steering is really heavy like there's no asssistance.

It also won't readily return to centre after a turn, pretty petty but the pits picked it up...... Anyone had any similar problems?

It has a Tomei Hicas lock thing on the side of the computer but this only turns the dash light on and off so I'm guessing its been disabled mechanically. In the engine bay where the pump is there are two wires, I've reconnected one and its turned the dash light off again but still no power steering...

Anyone can help me out I'd be very greatful......

cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/58500-r32-gts-t-hicas-problems/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

first check to make sure there is fluid in the reservoir. Then check to make sure the belt is on properly. If these are ok then the pump will need replacement.

The pump is a mechanical pump, not electrical. Even if you disable the hicas completely it still has power steering on the front. Therefore, if it's not pumping then the pump needs replacement. You'll have to do a couple of tests on it before guaranteed stuffed but I'd say that will be your problem if the belt and fluid level are ok.

when I took it to peddars they said the rack was moving on its mounts? I don't have much faith in them though......

My corolla with 300K on it still steers fine so I was surprised that my 100K line had a stuffed one......

think i'll grab a pump and see how I go.... :rofl:

how do you test if the pump is working?

the steering is hard and won't return to centre after a turn on its own, you have to manually bring it back....

If you rev the engine to about 3000 while stationary does the steering become easier or stay the same?

You won't be able to test the pump unless you can somehow check its pressure.

Did it just suddenly go like this? if so...when and what were you doing at the time?

going fast, slow round a corner when you noticed it?

Does the steering make any kind of growling noises when you turn?

Any other types of noises?

or is it just really hard to turn?

See if you can get a pump on there to check it.

Plus, how is the fluid level and the belt?

yeah, the only other thing I can think of...and it's electrical....is the power steer pressure switch. which is right next to one of the pressure lines. Check that it is plugged in.

Don't know how much effect this will have but it shouldn't.

There is a way to test it. It should tell you if your pump is producing enough pressure also.

I'll just read the manual and see if I can find it...I think it's terminal 19 on ecu to ground. Should be 0v when turning. I think...be back in a sec

I re connected a little plug today near the dip stick today. Plugs I have found:

One I reconnected near the pump

One small female tagged to the strut tower not connected

One Big female in front of the strut tower not connected

should either of these two empties be connected?

sorry its so vague, had S13s before this, the line is throwing me :rofl:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...