Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey ppl,

My 1992 R32 Gts-t was stolen today from UNSW carpark on Barker St, ie the Street Maccas is on, somtime today after 9:30am but before 4:30pm.

It is/was white, gtr front bar, m spec skirts, spoiler, sunroof and Black wheels. Check out the attached pic.

Rego = ALC - 04R (black numbers on white)

If anyone sees it, or hears anything about it, please call the cops with any info.

My mobile is 0402 342 725 also.

Thanks guys. Keep your babies safe!

You really appreciate them once they go.

Josh

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5898-stolen-r32/
Share on other sites

Sorry to hear, I always thought the car parks were secure with the parking police in ther 24 hours a day.

Are you sure they don't have a camera at the security booth at the entrance? Worth checking.

Did this happen on a weekday?

Pretty ****y for them to steal it in broad daylight at uni.

What sort of alarm did you have on it by the way?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5898-stolen-r32/#findComment-89322
Share on other sites

thats pretty F*CKED!..... I used to go to UNSW and I heard of ppl getting their keys .... but not really stolen... I notice that since my first year at uni there were more and more hi-po jap cars and heaps of imports.... I even seen this new 7 series with P plates driving around.... so I'm sure UNSW will be targetted by thieves...

Contact the security office and see if they have any info...

Good luck..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5898-stolen-r32/#findComment-89353
Share on other sites

Thanks for the support guys.

I actually work there, and know some of the security guards etc. Looks like no one saw anything. Although there is a thought that it may have been a "made to order" crime. Phoned the local constabulary and they said that the area was a hot spot at the moment, for reasons they couldnt say.

But yeah not nice either way. Thanks for your responses. Makes me feel better about the human race...a little anyways. I always wondered what it would feel like to lose my pride and joy... confirmation that it sucks!

Nah u guys rock. Look after your babies. :D

Catcha

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5898-stolen-r32/#findComment-89370
Share on other sites

Hey Josh,

Sorry to hear about the news mate!!!!!! :D

I was always sooooooo careful with my baby (when i had it ), but as we can all see and know....U CAN NEVA BE CAREFUL ENOUGH!!!

Dude you now will be stuck driving ur dads Commi Wagon:mad:

Oh yeah if ur confused who it is........hint = Berlinda's family

Jess's b/f

Yeah its Iain

Neways soz about the news again...hope it turns up...i'll be keeping my eyes out big time for ya!!

Cheers Ando

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5898-stolen-r32/#findComment-89374
Share on other sites

Hi all,

Yes it is very bad, these days you cant leave your car anywhere, the thing in josh's case is he had no alarm or immobiliser, and although it is easy to say in hindsight everyone should have one installed...if not turn your clublocks around so they cant get to the lock and maybe disconnect your ignition, the papers say they are using wrx's and sky's for ram raids atm so we all need to be extra careful, no where is safe... and also if your cars not insured dont leave it...lucky in this case it is but thats the only good point, but now I guess there is one less sky driver who has been relegated to driving a s**tbox...but oh well these ppl will get theirs in the end... this is also the reason why we all have trouble selling and insuring our cars because of scum like the ones who have taken josh's car, good luck bro I hope all works out well for you.

Scott

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5898-stolen-r32/#findComment-89392
Share on other sites

I guess the insurance company didn't require it.. but i think maybe its better it didn't have any alarms in this case cause if they cant steal it they would have just damaged it in all likely hood. Still the real question is why ppl feel the need to take others possesions rather than working for their something to call their own that they can be proud of. In the end khama will get these scum, maybe one day we will be able to leave our cars unlocked like the good old days....the way it should be.

Scott

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5898-stolen-r32/#findComment-89703
Share on other sites

Sorry to hear it dood, my car is either in the barker st car park or around willis st or on barker st. I've been badged there but never stolen. Hope u find it in one piece, u always in the permit parkin spots right?

Hmm....my car was at uni all night last night i've been here 24 hours straight nearly, i think i'm gonna go check my car!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5898-stolen-r32/#findComment-89717
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...