Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have tried searching the forums about importing a racecar from Japan, but cannot find any information.

I expect that Racecars would be available just like the roadcars that everyone is bringing in.

I have no plans to try to ever register an imported racecar, it will only be used for motorsport. I am looking at spending about AU$20k landed for a RWD car for club events.

Can anyone point me in the direction of jap sites that sell used racecars ?

Can anyone give me any advise on do's and don'ts of getting a racecar from Japan ?

Thanks

Mal

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/59001-importing-a-jap-racecar/
Share on other sites

From the DOTARS website:

[importing a vehicle for] Rally Use/ Closed Circuit Racing

Before approving an application, the Administrator needs to be satisfied that the vehicle will be only used for rally/race purposes

Import applications for rally/race use will only be considered where the vehicle will be used in serious competition, generally at professional level. Where a particular vehicle model is readily available in the Australian market, an import approval will not be granted unless there are compelling reasons to justify why it is necessary to import a vehicle to compete in events in Australia. The fact that a vehicle may be on an eligibility list for an event is not, of itself, a reason to justify the granting of an import approval.

At a minimum, the following criteria must be met:

Eligible vehicles for rally/race use are those homologated by the Federation Internationale de l’Automobile (FIA). These vehicle models can be found listed at www.fia.com/sport/Homologations/homol_vehicles.html.

Under normal circumstances applicants will be restricted to importing a single vehicle and acceptable reasons will need to be provided to import another vehicle for rally/race use.

Road vehicles for rally use are imported on the condition that they will only be used in the course of competition, practice associated with competition and transport to and from a rally location.

The applicant must lodge with their application a statement that the vehicle will only be used for rally purposes together with a copy of a current CAMS R3 or higher grade licence. For closed circuit racing the applicant must lodge with their application a statement that the vehicle will only be used for closed circuit racing purposes together with a copy of a current CAMS C3 or higher grade licence.

In addition, the applicant will need to provide evidence of a professional or high level involvement in rally/race sport, including:

details of events in which the applicant has driven a rally/race car;

details of specific events in which the applicant proposes to compete in the car for which the import application is submitted;

details of the rally/race club or organisation of which the applicant is a member and the length of membership; and

if the vehicle is a model available in the Australian vehicle market, justification of the need to import the vehicle (cost of the vehicle in the domestic market will not generally be considered an acceptable justification).

Documents required to be submitted with the application form:

$50.00 application fee, purchase documents, certified picture ID if first time applicant, copy of CAMS R3 or higher licence or CAMS C3 or higher, evidence of participation in rallying or closed circuit racing and evidence of vehicles homologation. (If you have not imported in last 12 months you are required to provide certified ID)

It's not hard if you do as per DOTS requirements, in the workshop is a GTiR, EVO 7 and we are looking for a GTR.

Best bet is to call DOTRS on 0262747111 and speak to the person who looks after "Race Rally" and tell them what you want and what licences you have.

One thing RX7's arent on the homologation list but if you have a letter from the club you belong to they will let you bring one in.

I have spoken to them a few times on this subject and are very help full..

Yeah I brought my gtr in under rally import which is a winner. Any year GTR is eligible so you don't have to pay $1mill yen for an 15yo, you can buy a newer one cheaper.

You need a CAMS C3 or higher to import it

As said you need to be able to prove it is eligible to race in something....

And you wold get a lot of car fo $20k I reckon, my GTR was $9k landed :)

I have tried searching the forums about importing a racecar from Japan, but cannot find any information.

I expect that Racecars would be available just like the roadcars that everyone is bringing in.  

I have no plans to try to ever register an imported racecar, it will only be used for motorsport. I am looking at spending about AU$20k landed for a RWD car for club events.

Can anyone point me in the direction of jap sites that sell used racecars ?

Can anyone give me any advise on do's and don'ts of getting a racecar from Japan ?

Thanks

Mal

Nice work Mal! DO IT!!! I was going to post up and say "speak to Duncan, he knows about this" but I see the little boy already beat me to it. An FD RX7 would be beatiful and you could certainly get one for that money, or maybe a full house SW20 MR2, GTR is another abvious one, or maybe an R32GTST? you could get the GTST her for well under 10K and have plenty of dough left for car preperation/set-up.

Bags the first drive (after you) no matter what you get!

Richard

Thanks for the replies people.

I would be looking for something that could be used in improved production or Sports Sedans , the only problem is I cannot prove a long recent history of open motorsport events. I also do not have my CAMS license anymore as I have not been active in motorsport for several years due to work.

The minister of War and Finance has given me the green light to look for a car that can be used in open events, so that we can spend some company money on sponsorship.

I was hoping to get a fully race prepped car that is "different" to anything currently racing in Oz. I would like to get a old GT car or similar.

I will give DOTRS a call to find out if it can be imported by a workshop and also find out more about what type of history in motorsport I need. I somehow do not think private practice or Fatz/Carlo drive days count.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
×
×
  • Create New...