Jump to content
SAU Community

EOI F/s HR31 GTS-X

Parker

By Parker,
in For Sale (Private Whole cars only)

 Share

Recommended Posts

Parker Collaborator

Parker

Posted
Posted

I'm chasing expressions of interest for my 1987 HR31 GTS-X. Mods include:

Full rebuild (to standard specifications approximately 20K ago) R31 NICS bottom end R32 RB20DET head, plenum, injectors etc

Manual (r32)

Turbo, r33 compressor vl turbo cartridge and exhaust wheel

Blitz FMIC

17x8 mags w 235 rubber (50% simex on the rear and 95% Yoko on the front)

full 3 inch exhaust from turbo back with polished stainless cannon

JIC height adjust coilovers on the rear, KONI and kings springs on the front with CUSCO upper controls and strut brace

S15 calipers on the front and R33 rear brakes

SAFC II

Oil catch can (never had anything in it when I've checked)

Polished crossover pipe and plug cover

Turbosmart BOV

K&N Pod filter

approx 230Hp at the rears in shootout mode

The car is the perfect base for further mods, the AFM and management being the only real impediment to more power. I have a complete R32 wiring loom,ECUand igniter module ready to be done and chipped with a Z32 AFM. I've only managed to hold back on doing more to the car because saving for a house and GTR was more important :wassup: The current tune is perfect for the everyday driving I use it for and it still gets 12l/100k's city and 10L/100k's country driving.

The car is in great nick with only a few minor blemishes in the paintwork. The front steering rack has been fully rebuilt to fix a common and expensive problem with cars of this age (~$1,000). It is a great car and has served me well but the time has come to get my arse back into a GTR. Offers of $13,000 ono.

The car is in Perth but transport to the East coast can be arranged

A fantastic alternative to a 180/ S13 platform, if you are after something a bit different this car gets a lot more stares than my '32 GTR used to.

Will consider swap and cash adjustment for R32 GTR.

Pics to follow

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/59124-eoi-fs-hr31-gts-x/
Share on other sites
  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • codygrimm27
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By codygrimm27 · Posted

      Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...