Parker

Great buy Chris!

Price drop to $30,000 o.n.o, spotters fee can be negotiated. Cheers.

New N1 front bar vents just pruchased.

Likewise zilla. Actually looked at yours when deciding on whether to get another one about 3 years ago. Addictive buggers aren't they

Bump.

Thanks for the kind comments. Also shows i'm an idiot for not posting my preferred contact details PM or email to [email protected]

This is my car and yes she’s up for sale. See below for the specs and relevant info but I think you’ll find that this is one of the most complete 32 GTR’s for sale at the moment. Yes it is an 89 model BUT look below what has gone into the build of this car before you mention the usual “I can get a 32 GTR for $XX,xxx”. If you are at all familiar with these cars you know it is very much a case of you get what you pay for… All mechanical work was done by Hyper Drive in Malaga both before and after I took possession of the car. The usual love and attention of 5,000km service intervals has been religiously followed for the ~20,000km I have had the car with only Mobil 1 being and BP Ultimate 98 being put in the car. All fluids have been done in the last 12 months including a full brake bleed and coolant power flush. The car is currently in a pretty lazy state of tune with 360rwhp (shootout mode @ 18psi) and I’ve had it at the drags for the grand total of 4 passes before the previous clutch started to slip (now has twin plate) for a 12.5 @ 110mph. The car has never seen a track or motorsport event other than this occasion. I am not a hoon and nor do I feel the need to prove myself or the car at every set of traffic lights. Motor and gearbox rebuilds occurred in 2005 as did the re-spray and all of the new Nissan items. The rear diff was done in September 2007 and ABS unit in December 2007. Essentially the whole car has been stripped and rebuilt to as new/better than new specifications and everything you see listed below has been done since 2005. The odometer currently reads 107xxx kms. Over 50% of the kilometres I’ve done in the car were done between Feb and September last year when I used the car as a daily to and from work for a period of time while I didn’t have a work vehicle (When I purchased the car I had a work vehicle and now have another so she’s back in the garage most days). Since November 2005 the only issue I’ve had was a seal letting go in the rear diff necessitating a rebuild and last year the ABS unit developed a leak (new ABS unit installed). This package is rock solid. Even the fuel consumption is pretty good as I’ll routinely get 440+km to a tank. The reason for the sale is that I am looking at getting a more ‘normal’ primary vehicle and also getting a motorcycle. I guess I’m getting old J, plus mortgage repayments are a b#tch!!! If it helps sweeten the deal I have a number of original parts still lying around that came off the car when the new stuff went on a workshop manual etc. Model 1989 R32 GTR Engine (all purchased, machined and assembled in 2005) Fully rebuilt motor with forged pistons Brand new R33 GTR crank was fitted to motor when rebuilt Nismo bearings Shot peened rods N1 oil and water pump Trust metal head gasket Tomei sump baffle kit Rocker cover baffle kit Head has been completely rebuilt with all new valve guides and valve seats Ancillaries Brand new r34 n1 turbos Djetro Power FC Sard 700cc injectors Bosch 044 fuel pump (in tank) Splitfire Coilpacks and platinum plugs Blitz dual sbc spec R boost controller HKS hard piping kit intercooler Custom Oil/Air separator 40mm triple core alloy radiator Apexi air intakes (the specific Djetro kit) Trust/Greddy Oil filter relocation kit RS*R exhaust is polished stainless with trust front pipes and r33 GTR dumps (better flow) Drivetrain Rebuilt, re-shimmed diff installed September 2007 Rebuilt gear box (2005) Exedy twin plate clutch (6,000kms on it) HICAS totally removed Pivot quickshift Cosmetic Stuff (done in 2005) All rocker covers, inlet manifolds, the fuel rail and all piping including power boosters etc have all been polished/painted. The previous owner told me that its approximately $2 - $3K in detailing work. Exterior (done in 2005) Full respray in metallic black Underneath has been repainted in sound deadening All metal heat shields over gear box exhaust etc all been sand blasted and re powder coated Tail shaft has been all sand blasted and repainted All underneath plastic panels and rubber seals through the car, inside and out, such as the door seals, window seals, front under trays, fire wall and plastic trims below wind shield all have been replaced. All of this was purchased new from Nissan in 2005. N1 side skirts. N1 Headlights (I have the standard projector ones if preferred) Inside R33 GTR front seats with the rears retimed to suit Nismo 260 km/h speedo Defi Boost, Water Temp and Oil Temp gauges Apexi turbo timer New original steering wheel New gear stick and handbrake leather boots (bankids group buy) GTR floor mats Both original keys AND a NISMO key Inside is immaculate the dash is brand new all new vents you name it Suspension (done in 2005) Tein h/a coilovers (height and damping adjustable) White line front rear sway bars Nismo front strut bar Camber correction kit Adjustable caster rods Urethane bushes right through the whole car 18x9 roh drift r rims (3 rims perfect one with slight gutter rash) with 265/35 approx 70% left Dba 4000 discs all round with Bendix advanced pads Cusco master cylinder brace Stereo Alpine deck with iPod connection cable Focal front splits and mb quartz rear speakers Amp wired up and mounted in the boot. The list goes on and on and I’m sure I’ve missed a few things. This is my second 32 GTR and it took me 9 months to find one that was up to my standards. I’m very fussy with my cars and I can honestly say that I’ve never shied away from spending the required money to get quality parts and tuning. The car has permits for the airfilters, intercooler and the Nismo strut bar it used to have window tint but it was too dark so I had it removed. The car also has an autowatch immobiliser with central locking. Car regoed till March 09. I was told the by the previous owners that they had poured approximately $50,000 into this car and basically the whole car was stripped and rebuilt. I purchased it in November 2005 and I have since spent another $20,000+ ($12,500 of that in parts alone, I can show you the receipts for everything I have done). I’m happy to field any genuine queries about the car and meet prospective buyers to show it off but only those that have put a deposit down will get to drive her. I’m more than happy to send the car to the Eastern states if there is interest from over there. My last car actually went to Melbourne so it’s no drama for me to do this again. I’ll even take the cost of your airfare off the negotiated sale price if you buy the vehicle. Asking price is $32,000 I am not interested in swaps unless you have a 2002 + Honda VTR250 with low kms, full service history and no crash history AND/OR a Nissan X-trail of around the same age. Thanks for reading this ridiculously long post. Have a look at the pics below, I can put up more on request. Cheers, Ryan.

Usual stuff on depending on how heavy right foot is blah blah blah but general metro driving will net between 400 - 450km a fill and country trip will almost crack 500 (never been game to push it cause i dont want to have to push it if you get my drift). Rebuilt 26 with N1's, PFC Djetro, 700cc sard injectors etc. I had to use the GTR for daily duties last year and racked up a few K's and it wasn't too much worse than the BA Falcon work vehicle i have now (although the ford gets more right foot) In short they're not bad for what they were designed to be.

It's an Axis amp, power light is on, protection light is not. Headunit is an Alpine CDM-7874EB, i've tried the reset out of desperation and suprise suprise no change. The noise i describe as a 'click' when turning the headunit on or off seems to come from the speakers themselves.

Pulled the power to the cross overs on both front doors one at a time and still had the click. Moved onto the rear speakers and noticed that they actually go to the amp (my bad, i thought it was all through the headunit). Wiring goes from left and right rear speakers to the L & R on the amp with another set of wires that run through the vehicle with the RCA's to the rear of the head unit (i.e. both the speaker + & - and the other wire + & - in each of the L & R socket on the amp). Disconnecting the rear speakers and the other wires from the amp leads to a loss of the click but no sound at all. Amp is an Axis "Mosfet 300watt 2 channel bridgeable power amplifier" Earth is still intact and happy. The amp's 30amp fuse is still good. I'm lost, are the other wires that go to the back of the amp (other than the rear speakers) providing the signal for the rear speakers or the fronts?

Thanks guys, a few things to check over the weekend or maybe this afternoon if all goes well. Gotta love Sau.

Speakers are powered through the head unit as the sub function on the head unit isn't being used (no sub). As for checking the earth i can't say as i noticed anything amiss when taking the head unit out but i'll put it on list of things to re-check before i go paying anyone. I know i also have some extra wiring in the engine bay that i think is supposed to minimise interferance with the sound from other electrical items on the car (engine noise?) I know thats a cr@ppy explanation but any ideas here?? Cheers.

Hi Guys, I have an older Alpine head unit in my 32 GTR that has stopped working after driving over some really rough road works (not 4wd territory or anything but i had the stereo turned down whilst going through the works and when i went to turn it back up when past the works there was no sound). The head unit still lights up, plays through a cd, finds radio stations and the sound display/equaliser is still moving but there is no sound. If you turn off the headunit and then power it back on you can hear the speakers 'click'. Because the only thing to change was going over some rought ground initially i thought a fuse or connection may have gone somewhere so i pulled the head unit out and it all looks good there, checked the fuse in the fuse box and also all good there. Then i pulled the doors apart and checked the connections into the speakers and crossovers and once again all is good there. I have an amp wired in the boot that has never had a sub hooked up to it since i've owned the car so i can't really say if anything is amiss back there, but it all looks good to my untrained eye. I have an Alpine head unit, Focal 6' fronts with MB Quartz tweeters and 6.5' on the parcel shelf. So has a connection come loose somewhere (i guess near the head unit as all of the speakers are out), a fuse that i cant find blown or what? Thanks for your help. Cheers, Ryan.

I would actually tend to disagree with you views on eastern staters and foreigners being the cause of lack of fish stocks in WA, the metro area in particular. Suffice to say the reasons are many and it would take a person much smarter than i to detail them all but in my experience people born in WA would have a far more impact on our fish stocks. But that isn't nearly as sensational as taking a look at one of our Northern suburbs beaches this Sunday. Anyhoo Dan, with kids keeping their interest can be hard if they aren't catching anything so as a first start an aquaculture place would be the best bet. Golden Ponds off Thomas Rd is one that hasn't been mentioned. If you're against paying for the experience but must catch something for the little fella head to one of the rock walls/groynes along the coast, use small baits and remember berley is your friend Good luck, but beware if he gets hooked (sorry for the bad pun) you're going to be up for some interesting christmas gift requests. Cheers.

If you price it well and it isn't a dog then it will sell no matter what the market is like. There will always be a person looking for a good example of these cars...you may just need to wait a bit till they find your ad

I've had two 32 GTR's and both were daily drivers at some point in my ownership of them. Yeah fuel can be an issue but my current GTR will still get 420+ to a tank, more on a country haul. Insurance will probably be a bit more than a GTS-t but if you can afford either then you can probably stretch for a GTR. Both of mine have been pretty reliable and any issues i've had i can honestly attribute to the age of the vehicle or hamfistedness on my part. I'd say the worst thing about using a GTR as a daily would be being totally paranoid about it when it's parked anywhere but my lock up garage or the secure compound at work. I do have a rather low opinion of the shopping cart brigade so tootling down to the shops can be a bit anxious. Having said that i'd be like that over any car i own so my advice... If you can afford the insurance and higer initial purhcase price go the GTR. Just dont be suprised when you start eyeing off fast bits for it 6 months down the track.

I think thats because it states that one is a V-specI and the other is a V-specII, neither of which are particularly ordinary 32 GTR's and i'm guessing the SEVS process would be a little more than a run of the mill 32 GTR because of the brembo's??? I think i smell a bit of the usual why cant i find a nice clean GTR for xx,xxx If you look for long enough something that suits your tastes and budget will come along.

you can feel the love

Everyone has their favourite workshops and each to their own but Hyperdrive is mine. Why? because i've know Ken since before Hyperdrive existed and yes he can be gruff (who wouldn't be with the amount of calls he has to take around actually getting cars in and out of the workshop) but he also wont p!ss in your pocket or leave you with a half @ssed or half finished car. You asked what do i need for this level of horsepower and Ken has advised a list of things that will make it with some head room AND quality parts that i assume carry a warranty. Yeah it's a lot of money but if you're looking at this level of power you better get used to spending money on your car Good luck with the grand plan. Cheers, Ryan.

I've hurt two standard R200's at the drags with a fair bit less than 700hp. They weren't fresh diffs so i couldn't say how good they are new but i'd be shelling out for an aftermarket centre and a complete freshen up of the bearings/seals etc.

How metro of you Dan

In the chair at the dentist, the needle in the jaw trick and come back a week later to do the next one. I wont say it was fun but it wasn't unbearable and it is much better having them out.

Currently having a scope around for a second hand diff that i can get recoed and beefed up a little but not having much luck here in Perth. If nothing turns up by wednesday this week i think i'll be buying an after market 1.5way and whacking new bearings etc in there.

Righto, we have an update. On a whim i thought i'd jack one side of the car and see if the lsd action was still going on...and it wasn't So rebuild or new aftermarket 1.5way? i think it'll come down to time off the road and convenience for me.

I've put the correct castrol fluid in the diff (cant remember the exact name but according the the workshop manual its the right stuff - hypoid, GL5 rated etc) and the whine has got a little more noticeable in the 4 days since changing it. If it is the bearings in the diff any idea of cost to recondition it? i know that when i had my HR31 longnose R200 rebuilt and shimmed tighter it cost me about $500. Thanks guys.