Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

if he has bought ignition leads as opposed to coil packs, then he has got an sr20 with a distributor, ive only sr20de's with dizzys, there isnt going to be fa difference with splitfire ignition leads unless the old ones are dead,

people usually buy splitfire coils if there stock ones are dead and they dont want to put more second hand ones in , and there cheaper than new nissan ones, and apparently they produce a better spark

someone correct me if im wrong

not to much wrong with nissan coil packs, although my mate and i were testing everything in car to find around 100hp loss at wheels, and whilst testing coilpacks we just sat them on the top over the rocker cover and turned it over and the rubbery shroud let quite a lot of spark out, so we covered them in electrical tape to stop any spark loss. but this wasnt prob it turned out to be timing on exhaust cam.

not to sure if this answers your q, but i think the sr packs are different to rb packs anyway, cant remeber. ok now i'm blabbering bye bye

Well.

I get the impression you only really replace with splitfires if your old ones are dead cos the splitfires are cheaper and do a better job. But not enough of a better job to upgrade it just as an upgrade?

Would I be correct in thinking this?

Sounds like another half assed conversion to me.

Just bolted a turbo to an NA?

Did he upgrade the support systems around it. i.e brakes etc?

If you cant have a turbo on the car legally, why have one at all?

Sounds like he got defected for all the right reasons.

If its all legal why remove it.

Maybe he should think about the real issues with the car, rather than what brand he wants on his milo tin sticking out the back.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...