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Advice on what to do...


makaveli
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Yeh more details about the busted boxes:) Mine is alive and kicking after 175,000kms with an upgraded clutch and for the last 25,000kms runs between 180-230rwkws depending the boost level im running. I certainly row thru the gears but i dont mash gears....

What is braking on them?

For a street car im starting to think perhaps a HKS 2510 is a good setup. On paper spool would be as good as std if not better considering ppls claims that a 2530 in only marginally more laggy then std. Second to that the thing flows better then a std turbo and you can run 1.0-1.2 bar all day. And you will go damn close to 200rwkws.

To me that is good healthy power in an R32. Only problem is if you start doing circuit work you may lomg for a bit more pull up top, lol just stick to tight tracks i suppose.

With around 190-200rwkws (was runing lower boost then usual due to a miss) i was still able to run a 13.4 @108mph with a slipping clutch. (Xtreme clutch doesnt like beign ridden hard off the line:() So i would think a 2510 is able to get you into the very high 12s...which is a quick car.

Oh and HKS 2510s are unloved meaning that i see them from time to time at very attractive prices, and at 200rwkws you are a good chance of being able to use std injectors with pressure reg, std AFM and re-mapped std ECU. The money you save on the injectors, PFC, AFM etc etc can be spent on some cams that can be bought new for $900, i then think you would have an RB20 that would upset the established thinking....an R32 with a nice and punchy 200-215rwkws:)

I havent ruled out going to a 2510 myself if i come across one, as im looking at getting the engine bay looking a little more std then at present...and i like the idea of running a std manifold with std heat shields etc, perhaps with the std manifold extrude honed and match poerted to the head:)

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I love the shape of the 32 so there's no way I could go to the r33 (no offence 33 owners)

I think that 220-240 kw's on a rb25 in a 32 would be a perfect street setup that would also be good to drive on the track.

Even with my mates car which probably had 190 or so it pulled like crazy!!!!

Take it easy

Mark

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heh, i agree man, the r32 is the king !

feels much more nimble to me than the r33s/r34s do.

Its just a shame the rb20 is so gay. Its like a honda engine heh.

Meh its not that bad, i mean my car only makes serious power at 6000rpm, like really starts moving then... it makes power before hand but its true power is really late in the rev range... and if i drop below 4500rpm... forget it... i have to add in a filthy clutch dump to keep the revs up there.

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makaveli i would personally go for the rb25 (from a r33) and bolt up a HKS GT-RS turbo or GT2535. I did heaps of research and reading into these set-ups and eventually went the gt-rs. that will see you easily at 240rwkw on a lower boost setting, and the setup is perfect for street driving. you will also need a bigger fuel pump, it ends up getting costly.

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well for the hp you want a near std rb26det could be and option worth every scent and if you buy half cut you cut sell all the bits you dont want awd box, panels ,lights ,bumber and you get a heep of bit you can use for upgrade or sell brake calipers,cooler etc sometimes it worth sending a bit more money at the start and you wouldn't have to buy the exacts you would with the other options to gain the same power. Worth a good think hehe LONG LIVE THE RB26DETT

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Hi Guys,

thanks for all the input! If you have any more to discuss about experiences and the rb20 or rb25 please go for it I want to have a full picture before i go jumping into spending alot of $$$.

Thanks for the advice Croat, I already have a bosch 044 pump in my boot :cheers:

Take it easy

Mark

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aKTiVE ... i see you have fulllock.com in your sig. You wouldnt happen to be the owner of the grey R32 that i have seen from time to time at Centreline?

Hi Roy,

Thats Matt's car you would have seen at Centreline getting extensive suspension mods.

I have a Black R32.

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What turbo setup is Matts car running? It certainly sounds tuff:) Yeh i was looking at the Notlec upper control arms that he is running, plus a few other bits and pieces on it, not sure if is hould bother witrh them though?

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yes matts car sounds offensive.

I dont think you should bother with his suspension upgrades, they were quite serious... his car was a test pig pretty much, the work they did to it, they hadnt done before, and it cost a fair bit.

matt is happy with it though, he hasnt said anything that suggests he isnt happy... so it all works well... i've had a few drives, and its very very nice. (i'm assuming you know its setup for drift... therefore, no traction what so ever)

he is running a GT2530 with a dump pipe that has a screamer pipe attached, and a 3" system from there with no restrictions =) STRAIGHT THROUGH.

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Hi Guy's,

I have finally decided that I am going to do the rb25 engine and gearbox conversion, along with a power fc and dump pipe.

I will do the turbo and injectors most likely early next year.

I was wondering where would be a good place to source all my parts???

I don't want to go some where dodgy and get shit quality parts, I live in Melbourne and I'd like to know what places would be good without charging too much.

thanks

Mark

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I was wondering where would be a good place to source all my parts???

I don't want to go some where dodgy and get shit quality parts, I live in Melbourne and I'd like to know what places would be good without charging too much.

thanks

Mark

Id be speakign to workshops re/costs before buying gear.

Quality workshops charge money, they are able to for good reason. Speak to as many workshops as possible, and visit them and discuss what you want, pricing and make sure a deadline is set, and its realistic.

If your paying someone to do it i think you will eb shocke dby how much it is going to cost.

Say 16 hrs to remove engine. Ppl will say less, but reality is thats what they will charge by the time they have degassed aircon, dumped fluids, unplugged harness and removed enginegearbox and tailshaft.

So then you need to pay for all the new fluids, new tailshaft, mod loom to either run without variable timing on the inlet cam or install R33 loom, with added expense of buying R33 loom. So thats more time. I wouldbe very surprised if a reputable shop would charge less then $3000.

Thats a guess, based on what i was charged to remove and re-install an RB20 by a Melb workshop earlier this year, plus the extras like tailshaft etc etc.

Very interested to hear sort of dollar figures you get quoted...as most the stuff on the forum is based around the prices of ppl doing things themselves or by friends. Good luck, shold be a punchy/good package:)

lol....scratch up another unloved RB20, another spare one if i blow mine:)

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Hi Roy,

My mate Sam (Horus) spoke to Benny from Chasers and Benny will do everything

for $2,500. I just have to supply the parts. He has done conversions like this before

so I feel very confident in his work and know I will get a quality job.

take it easy

Mark

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Nice choice mark,

you'll love the rb25 =)

Young Benny is doing it hey? haha hes a good kid.

If you have problems with ECU or something like that... you can run the RB20DET ECU with an RB25DET... you just have to run rb20 injectors and rb20 fuel rail and then you can run the rb20det loom with the rb25 engine. Tailshaft has to be shortened and balanced but it will all work sweet.

I'm sure i'll see your car at chasers, good luck with it man.

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...

Young Benny is doing it hey? haha hes a good kid.

If you have problems with ECU or something like that... you can run the RB20DET ECU with an RB25DET... you just have to run rb20 injectors and rb20 fuel rail and then you can run the rb20det loom with the rb25 engine.  Tailshaft has to be shortened and balanced but it will all work sweet.

I'm sure i'll see your car at chasers, good luck with it man.  

Cool, i have heard a few good reports now about Chasers, so good luck with it:)

And what happens to the variable valve timing on the RB25DET if you use the RB20 ECU? And last question, does the $2500 cover things like tailshafts etc etc, or is that included in your supplying parts?

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Hi Roy,

I was told that $2,500 will do everything, although I have to go buy an engine, gearbox, loom and ecu.

I just got off the phone to my local mechanic whom I am mates with and have done all my mechanical work on my car to date, they told me $1,000 will do everything.

They will swap the engine, fit gearbox, fit the loom and ecu, put new irridium plugs, oil, oil filter, fuel filter etc... The will also shorten the tail shaft, fit my boost controller, catch can and dump pipe.

I think thats a good deal.

:cheers:

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Also I just spoke to a mate that will supply me an engine for $2,500

provided that I trade in the rb20.

It is a 98 s2 r33 rb25 40th anniversary edition with 34,000k's

I can't wait I just have to pay my rego and then ill go visit the bank.

The wheels will be in motion in about 3 weeks.

take it easy

Mark

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And what happens to the variable valve timing on the RB25DET if you use the RB20 ECU?  And last question, does the $2500 cover things like tailshafts etc etc, or is that included in your supplying parts?

well... what happens to the variable valve timing when you start modifying your car extensively?

Pretty much becomes irrelavant.

I was speaking to Jarus from D1 NZ who came down and had a drive in our last Drift Competition and he competes in a Nissan Cefiro with an Rb25DET running rb20 ecu and he says it works a treat.

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