Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

its a motor i actually havent researched into at all... im just curious if anyone has any pics of it with the plastic covering off and also has anyone tried to run over 250rwkw through one with standard internals without hassles?

hard to work on or same as r33 rb25?

thanks in advance guys, :(

- adz

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60271-neo-rb25det/
Share on other sites

This Neo-6 came out of an R34 GT-T. It's had an RB26 inlet manifold conversion. AFAIK the ones with the Neo-6 cover don't have any 'Twin Cam 24 Valve' badging on the black middle peice... just a plain plastic spark plug cover.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60271-neo-rb25det/#findComment-1146726
Share on other sites

Rezz youre a legend! thanks for that... i was scared they looked nothing like the r33 rb25 under all that covering haha...

now the question is - do they handle mass amounts of power and limiter bashing on standard bottom end (head will be modified)?

also interchangeability inregards to parts from the r33 rb25det... ie will r33 rb25det cams and camshafts work, injectors etc

- adz

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60271-neo-rb25det/#findComment-1146761
Share on other sites

now the question is - do they handle mass amounts of power and limiter bashing on standard bottom end (head will be modified)?

also interchangeability inregards to parts from the r33 rb25det... ie will r33 rb25det cams and camshafts work, injectors etc

- adz

Ok, 'Power Garage TestaRossa' (my preferred RB tuning garage :)) say that the RB25DET Neo-6 is a huge improvement over the R33 RB25... also the Neo-6 (later ones) are rated at 280ps from the factory, so I think they'd handle as much as the R33 RB25 and then some! I've heard that up to 70% of the Neo-6 RB25 is all new. I think most of the differences of the 2 engines come from head and cams... that means: R33 cams can't go in the Neo 6 RB25, theres some differences with the cam angle sensor or something... injectors I'm not sure, but that would be easy to find out yourself.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60271-neo-rb25det/#findComment-1150720
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...