Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Engine done 86000kms, i have documentation that compression is spot on, comes without turbo, ac, ps or loom. $800.

Gearbox is in exceelent condition too, $500.

Will sell together for $1200.

0414972596.

Shaun.

(near Sydney)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60354-rb20-engine-and-gearbox-fs/
Share on other sites

Both are still available. It is a manual box in excellent condition. Freight to Brisbane is about $150, so i imagine it would be similar to Melbourne.

yeh is it manual or auto box??.

Sorry if this is a 'time waster' post, but my car was stolen, and i have now recovered it, but they only drove the sum of about 1km - the tyres show no signs of burnouts, but my clutch, when i let it out - doesn't affect engine speed AT ALL, mechanics just said - yeah clutch, so its in having the clutch fixed. But i can't see how a clutch can go from gripping perfectly, to not gripping AT ALL, in 1 km, so i'm concerned that the gearbox is fecked also,

i'm a little strapped for cash since i had nothing before this happened, and i've now spent $1000 on recovering the vehicle and clutch parts, so if the gearbox is to blame i'll need a new one:(

is $500 the cheapest you'll do for the gearbox?, i'm in brisbane, what company did you try for freight through, i sent a gearbox and diff via rail, about 400kms for $28 not so long ago.

If you pay and organise postage ill let it go for $400. Sorry to hear about your car.

Ok man, thanks - wont forget it. Once the mechanics get it all apart, should be monday next week i'll know the deal and i'll let you know asap.

Charles

The gearbox comes with the gearbox only. Sorry, gotta keep flywheel with the engine.

G'day, if I buy the gearbox can you supply the flywheel and clutch from the engine?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • neither stumble or cut really seem to be an appropriate term....hard to explain its like a rev limiter but at 4k, but it violently shakes engine and entire vehicle as the rpms will not rise over 4k, even with slow acceleration. as soon as it hits 4k, it sounds like entire spark is lost entirely. plugs were 1.1 which I used as such, but later put in new plugs gapped down to .8 changed back after issue arose when I replaced the coils, still does it with either plug gap...damn and it was all running so good.
    • Oh how times have changed! I actually lean it out relative to my water/methanol injector duty cycle. The methanol adds a lot of fueling and you can then lean it out even more due to reduced knock. 
    • Yeah my thoughts are the same, a well thought out WMI setup, would be slightly ahead of just straight E85 and you're also chemically intercooling the charged air, dropping it even further. This is why you need to add so much more fuel as soon as you spray. I remember someone taking me through their set up before (Dennis, has a R33, lives around Cabramatta - no idea if he's still around on this forum). He would target AFR 10:1 on 98, then as WMI ramped on, AFR would lean back up to 11:1. Amazingly, he did this all through his PowerFC, a relay to cut power to his EBC solenoid if there was not enough line pressure on his WMI kit. And of course, if there wasn't any boost made above gate pressure, you wouldn't be accessing the load cells with heaps of timing for WMI. One downside to that rudimentary setup, once the WMI came on, the EBC would unleash the dragon, and of course all the timing. Tyres would fry lol.
    • Shimmed or shimless, still solid, no hydraulic pump up stuff.
    • They have said food will be limited. Mainly meat pies and sausage rolls from memory. But they have a coffee van!
×
×
  • Create New...