Jump to content
SAU Community

Auction sheet help


zymotic
 Share

Recommended Posts

5415image003.jpg

Things I can tell:

1998 2.5L ECR33 GTSt

Grade 4

Interior Grade B

80,100 km

KR4 = silver

5 speed

AC

3 minor pin dents each side

minor scratch on backside

medium and minor scratch on front bumper

Things not sure about:

Windscreen damage?

PW= power windows?

AW=?

PS= power steer?

I7B=?

Interested in the Advertising section and options section

(2 boxes above car) and the negatives section lower left

(4 lines)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

is it possible to get a bigger version of this - impossible to read a lot of it.

it's a one owner car

rego until march

from the kanji, could well mean a stone chip on the windscreen

ac, power steering, power windows, bodykit, runs on petrol (yay)

looks to have factory option navigation system (yet this isn't marked in the option list)

I'll have another look in the morning, unless someone provides more info before then

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 lines in the lower corner (I assume you mean left-hand side, above the box section) - first one means there are stains inside, second one means there is rust on the underbody, I believe the third line refers to the sideskirt (?step) but I have no idea what the damage reference is (reads to me as 'ear surface' - I asked a japanese person, they also had no idea - we think it might be 'auction dialect' haha), likewise the bottom line - I think it's a reference to the dents on the panels (but can't offer any more info than that). Stone chip(s?) on the windscreen

Options: the top box says power steering, power windows, bodykit, and ?AW (can't remember what the last one is - I should know...), the navigation system box isn't checked, but...

section below options (sales point): says 5spd manual, and factory option navigation system

The handwriting is terrible, btw!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think I7B is airbag?

If you dont mind could you translate mine? :)

I know the jist of it, but no idea on the writing on the left handside.

auction2.jpg

it has small dent and scatch ..

repair apparent r/h door

grade 4 .b is about as good as they get ..try and remember that...grade 4 generally means $500 to $1000 to spend to make car YARD ready ..detail ,RWC items etc

b interior usually non smoker as well

i would happy with the 2 cars with auction sheets on this thread..both good non accident cars with little to spend when they get here :cheers:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 lines in the lower corner (I assume you mean left-hand side, above the box section) - first one means there are stains inside, second one means there is rust on the underbody, I believe the third line refers to the sideskirt (?step) but I have no idea what the damage reference is (reads to me as 'ear surface' - I asked a japanese person, they also had no idea - we think it might be 'auction dialect' haha), likewise the bottom line - I think it's a reference to the dents on the panels (but can't offer any more info than that).  Stone chip(s?) on the windscreen

Options: the top box says power steering, power windows, bodykit, and ?AW (can't remember what the last one is - I should know...), the navigation system box isn't checked, but...

section below options (sales point): says 5spd manual, and factory option navigation system

The handwriting is terrible, btw!

Big thanks for that.

Heh I'll have to take your word for it about the terrible handwriting.

Guess the thing that scares me is the underbody rust.

I guess a general rule for me being Japanese illiterate is to avoid in

general cars with any writing under the negative points. Unfortunately,

some may be pretty minor and I wouldn't know.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Heres a challenge for ya... :sly:

We managed to translate most of this, but we didnt know alot of the kanji. If anyone can fill me in (especially on the Advertisment and Sales Points) I'd really appreciate it. DaiOni?? :cheers:

1635B.jpg

Domo arigatoo gozaimashita

Link to comment
Share on other sites

it has small dent and scatch ..

repair apparent r/h door

grade 4 .b is about as good as they get ..try and remember that...grade 4 generally means $500 to $1000 to spend to make car YARD ready ..detail ,RWC items  etc

b interior usually non smoker as well

i would happy with the 2  cars with auction sheets on this thread..both good non accident cars with little to spend when they get here :D

this car IS a accident .......its in USS's damaged corner.....4000 and above is from the damaged corner

Link to comment
Share on other sites

blacky - I've translated just about everything but the bottom 1/3 (which, again, is very hard to read - takes a native/skilled person to recognize handwriting like that on face value). A lot of the damage stuff is hard to work out because it's in 'auction speak' - kind of a dialect (or at least, vocab) of its own.

I just haven't had time to write it up - maybe tomorrow.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

this car IS a accident .......its in USS's damaged corner.....4000 and above is from the damaged corner

By that logic mine would also be accident damaged being no. 10,211?

So they give out grade 4 to acco vehicles??? Can't see any X's on my car either.

Blacky's is no. 1635 so that means even though it is grade R-1 and has X's on the car its not acco damaged? I'm confused.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

By that logic mine would also be accident damaged being no. 10,211?  

So they give out grade 4 to acco vehicles??? Can't see any X's on my car either.

Blacky's is no. 1635 so that means even though it is grade R-1 and has X's on the car its not acco damaged? I'm confused.

there is a cut off number for the vehicles in the previously damaged corner of USS(i think its 8000 but cant be sure)anything that has 4000 and something is DEFINATLY from the damaged corner...8000 is from the damaged(still damaged,undrivable)The grade on a car doesnt mean NOTHING....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Doing it this weekend. For sure this time. Thank you forum gods.  And im running map sensor now with the haltech. Still have the AFMs attached to the mushroom dome shaped air filter things
    • Actually, it is probably pretty legit. I mean, it's still woke feminazi bullshit academia, but you would have to agree that it is very likely that there would be a correlation between wanting a loud exhaust and scoring at the unpleasant end of the scales for dark triad personality traits. The fact that they found it didn't correlate with narcissism and only with psychopathy and sadism definitely shows that the loud exhaust thing is more of a "f**k you" than a "look at me", and I reckon that rings pretty close to most of the dickheads who take it to the extreme. Remember, this is correlation with tendency to be closer to one end of a personality trait scale than the other end. Of course someone who is at the literal opposite end of the psychopathy scale is going to be so considerate of others that they wouldn't even think about wanting to upset anyone with a loud exhaust. So the finding isn't that "you are a psychopath". Just that you score more towards that end of the scale than someone who doesn't like loud exhausts (on average, not necessarily even for specific individuals).
    • Blitz ER34 at some point hopefully, should be allowed in Gr3 if they do.
    • Stock R33 boost control, with the exhaust, and FMIC done, will boost creep. There is no tuning around it if it is the factory boost solenoid.   If it has an aftermarket electronic boost controller, the settings/mapping can be altered in it.   Oil could be anything as mentioned, however did it ever do it before you did the turbo swap? How much and how often did you drive the car before the swap?   I'm hinging on too much oil supply, or it's not draining properly.   To check, pull the air outlet off the turbo. Is it full of oil? Drop the exhaust at the turbo, does it appears to be oiled/coked? Now pull turbo and check the exhaust manifold, does it appears oiled and coked the same way?   Secondly, the PCV could even be stuffed / not functioning properly and will cause blowing of blue smoke.
×
×
  • Create New...