Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

thanks to speedy australia post, i have been waiting and waiting and waiting.

DSC01552.jpg

Finally, my GT4 arrive this morning!

i have been told IF i go for the jap version, the perious save from GT3 will able to tranfer and i save a bit time of saving up $$ for car.

But they are NOT! :)

i have no idea what a lot of it means as thre are HEAPS of Jap, i should have go for the english or even chinese version.....

As they are NTSC (jap) version i am not sure if it can run on chipped aus. PS2.

but if anyone have a DVD burner and wanna try i am happy to "lend"

or even come to my place have a few games if u want to, some beer too! :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61390-gt4-arrived/
Share on other sites

There is no english version yet (thats what Im waiting for) but the Chinese version has more english in it.

You need a Japanese GT3 save game to get the cash and if you have a Japanese version of GT4 prologue save game then you get domestic A&B licences.

Damn I am Jealous of you :rofl:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61390-gt4-arrived/#findComment-1160639
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lets say I wanted to buy this, specifically for this purpose. How do I actually perform the function. Can I still buy a Consult-1? Am I about to be burned by the fact my car is a 2000 model Series 2 R34 and thus will be some stupid other system? Do I just need this -> https://obd2australia.com.au/product/nissan-consult-14-pin-to-usb-ddl-diagnostic-interface-with-ftdi-ft232r-chip/ And with what software?
    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
×
×
  • Create New...