Jump to content
SAU Community

My baby's playing up.

burkey22

By burkey22,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

burkey22 Community Regular

burkey22

Posted
Posted

Hello all.

Tonight I went to take my Stag for a good run as I'm about to go away for a month.

When I put my foot down though things went pear shaped. It started what felt to me like it was missing a bit. The power wasn't smooth at all. And the exhaust was spluttering like it does when it changes gears if I'm fanging it.

I hope someone can understand what I'm talking about and tell me it's nothing major. I haven't checked anything yet as it's dark outside. Not real sure where to look either.

Sorry about the vagueness of ther message. Any help or info would be awesome.

Thanks guys.

Zane.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61835-my-babys-playing-up/
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...
Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

Similar experience......ours started playing up a bit after the long run (400 k's straight). It would miss occasionally under load and drop a cylinder at idle sometimes. As usual, first guess would be plugs. It was my undertanding that it had new plugs put in during the compliance process, but I figured I might as well check them anyway.

The plugs sure looked new but they were Autolites, APP 3924-11's. Now I have never had much luck with Autolites, and 1.1 mm is way too big a gap. So in went a set of the usual NGK BCPR6ES's gapped to 0.8 mm. Bingo no miss, runs perfectly and I am sure makes more power.

I don't know whether anyone else has checked their plugs since compliance, but it might be worthwhile as both burkey22 and I have had similar problems.

:P

Jay95R33 Grand Master

Jay95R33

Posted
Posted

When I checked mine they were the factory ones (only had 57k). I didn't bother waiting for it to play up. I scored a set of Iridiums from a mate that used them for about 2 months for nothing ;) . Already gapped to .8mm in the right heat range too, and chucked them straight in :D

tigerleo62 Enthusiast

tigerleo62

Posted
Posted

I had the spark plugs replaced - the originals were still in the car. Had injectors cleaned, transmission and diff oil replaced...

Car still misses and does strange things with the g box swapping gears while cruising and not changing down when cornering...

Apparently no cracks in the coils. Been told it might be air flow meter or fuel flow sensor thing - as the car does not exhibit the problems consistently, the auto electrician/mechanic couldn't find any faults, so have to wait until the car misbehaves consistently ;)

tigerleo62 Enthusiast

tigerleo62

Posted
Posted

Just looked at the part number of plugs that were installed - NGK BKR5EIX-11 - now would these plugs have too large a gap and be too 'hot' for a standard stag engine with out mods apart from a panel filter?

Would the larger gap also make the car feel a little sluggish apart from the possibility of mis-firing? I am wondering whether the problems I am still experiencing with the odd running of my car is now also due to incorrect spark plugs... any comments?

:)

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
Just looked at the part number of plugs that were installed - NGK BKR5EIX-11 - now would these plugs have too large a gap and be too 'hot' for a standard stag engine with out mods apart from a panel filter?

Would the larger gap also make the car feel a little sluggish apart from the possibility of mis-firing? I am wondering whether the problems I am still experiencing with the odd running of my car is now also due to incorrect spark plugs... any comments?

:P

The -11 = 1.1 mm and from my experience that's too big, particularly at more than standard boost. I used 0.8mm on the NGK BCPR6ES, actually they came as -8, but I still checked the gaps. I use BCPR7ES in the race car, but they are too cold for lots of traffic driving. Hence the 6's are the go.

My suggestion would be to gap them down to 0.8mm, the heat range shouldn't cause the missfiring.:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ToothDR32
      $5 Clock upgrade for R32 GTR

      By ToothDR32 · Posted

      Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...