Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

All

I have just rebuilt my R32 GTR as follows

forged/balanced shot peened (solid) bottom end

N1 Turbos

N1 bearings

R34 crank

port and polish head

HKS dump pipes and 80mm exhaust (no cat)

1.2mm TOMEI head gasket

N1 Water

N1 Oil

Std cooler and AFM

Mines ECU

What sort of rwkw should I expect @ ~18psi (should be fine with the N1's yes?)

What mods should I look at next and in what order

FMIC + hard piping kit

PCF

Z32s

044 Fuel Pump + injectors

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/62165-r32-rebuild-where-to-from-here/
Share on other sites

Guest two.06l
All

I have just rebuilt my R32 GTR as follows

forged/balanced shot peened (solid) bottom end

N1 Turbos

N1 bearings

R34 crank

port and polish head  

HKS dump pipes and 80mm exhaust (no cat)

1.2mm TOMEI head gasket

N1 Water

N1 Oil

Std cooler and AFM

Mines ECU

What sort of rwkw should I expect @ ~18psi (should be fine with the N1's yes?)

What mods should I look at next and in what order

FMIC + hard piping kit

PCF  

Z32s

044 Fuel Pump + injectors

the mines ECU is holding your potential back, its strange you put engines fuel supply last. It does not matter how tough you build an engine, poor fuel delivery and tuning can quickly have you back to square one. eg. a well tuned stocker can outlast and sometimes outperform a poorly tuned built engine.Paul...DIRTgarage.

No, A powerFC should be next.

 

If you want to stretch the stock injectors a little you should also get an adjustable fuel pressure reg. The stock injectors 'I THINK' with a bit of fuel pressure max out just under 300rwkw.

280-300rwkw sounds about right to me (if you run the math)

do i NEED a hand controller with the PFC - or can I use a laptop

Guest two.06l
Sorry guys - quick correction  

It's not mines - it's Blitz. It's still got to go tho

any input on rwkw for the inital setup ? (I'm hoping for ~250rwkw @ 18psi)

we made 284rwkw on a stocker with cat back 3" exhaust, power fc running base map and AVC-R boost controller.

9881DIRTgarage_dyno1.jpg

Everycar is different, and so are the dyno's there are run on ... in saying that you should be well over 250rwkw as you can get that with stock turbo's

was running std turbos @ ~15psi - no dump pipes - and was getting 210rwkw

pots 1 and 4 were almost total shot tho

can't wait to get the car back (and wait 5000klms for it to run in)

Guest two.06l
was running std turbos @ ~15psi - no dump pipes - and was getting 210rwkw

pots 1 and 4 were almost total shot tho  

can't wait to get the car back (and wait 5000klms for it to run in)

we tweaked the injector correction values to achieve the A/F ratios,running 1 bar boost with stockies.

was running std turbos @ ~15psi - no dump pipes - and was getting 210rwkw

pots 1 and 4 were almost total shot tho  

can't wait to get the car back (and wait 5000klms for it to run in)

and adj cam gear is worth a good 20rwkw on a GTR

noticed 5000km was mentioned as a run in period is this seen as the mark for boost increases to higher levels?... I have an engine in exactly the same spec as itbilms (trust cooler and factory ECU) and it has currently done 1200km and had the 1000km oil change....

motul 8100....

I am running 13.5psi max with most running being done on the 9 psi low boost setting.....

I have not taken it to the dyno as yet, as I have had the car for all of 3 days!

just a few questions for those more in the know than I.....

what is deemed a safe boost?

Apexi FC seems to be the way to go, are bigger injectors needed? and will they bring a gain for the $$$ or are they just going to give a high potential later with other things done....

oil cooler? when is it deemed a must do?

any worthy advice is certainly wanted ;) you can never know too much about these cars!

I've stuck with mineral oil (Motul 4000 10w30) until 10,000km's.

Its probably a little overkill as I only really needed to stay with mineral oil until 5,000km's.

I figure its best to be safe than sorry and have a motor that has a bit more blowby than it should have.

Up to 10,000km's is what they yank's usually do and is what is recommended for a lot of new cars before changing to synthetic. Thats the main reason for my decision.

My motor, run 16psi since it was bedded in on the dyno using mobil1 synthetic right from the start.

Nothing wrong yet, down'd 5000km's so far

MAjor car manufacturers use synthetic right from the get-go, so am i

All

I have just rebuilt my R32 GTR as follows

forged/balanced shot peened (solid) bottom end

N1 Turbos

N1 bearings

R34 crank

port and polish head  

HKS dump pipes and 80mm exhaust (no cat)

1.2mm TOMEI head gasket

N1 Water

N1 Oil

Std cooler and AFM

Mines ECU

What sort of rwkw should I expect @ ~18psi (should be fine with the N1's yes?)

What mods should I look at next and in what order

FMIC + hard piping kit

PCF  

Z32s

044 Fuel Pump + injectors

first power fc and hand controller

second afms (rb20/25 are good to 540rwhp and much cheaper)

third 700cc injectors (i dont know about pump as i'm making 525rwhp on std unit)

also when you do afms upgrade all your inlet piping to turbos

and with these mods with good exhaust you should easily make mid 400rwhp

only my opinion hope it helps ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You're going to miss not worrying about rust in the strut towers like the Skyline shitboxes out there
    • A few little updates that weren't filmed due to not taking long to do or not interesting enough for their own video. My new K&N Air Filter arrived, I went with an RU-4180 which matched the dimensions of the universal cone filter the car originally had.  The battery had gone flat, while that was charging I tidied up the spaghetti wiring at the bulk head and down the sides of the engine Next job was to swap the stereo The Kenwood harness had the female ISO plugs cut off and the male ISO plugs cut off the adaptor loom and joined with bullet connectors. I ordered in a repair loom through work and re-did it all. New Kenwood unit installed (Android Auto, DAB, Bluetooth, Reverse Camera) The bonnet/hood gas struts have been poor since collecting the car. I couldn't find any suitable replacements locally so took a chance on a pair from AliExpress.  The originals don't use a retaining clip to secure the cup onto the ball fixture, would explain why I struggled for 10-15mins trying to pry off the cups. The ball fixtures unscrew using a 12mm spanner, new ones are the same size. Sadly no photo of them fitted, you're not missing much lol The dished Momo steering wheel got replaced with my Momo Tuner, turns out I ordered counter sunk bolts for the horn trim ring (like they normally are for the steering wheel) instead of allen cap (flat seat)  A terrible photo of a Quaife style gear shift knob I've had stashed in my tool box for many years after purchasing the incorrect thread size (I can see a pattern emerging with ordering incorrect parts...) Also threw in a cup holder and a (empty) Boss Coffee can, because why not  
    • GT-R clearly the better choice! The 300 is certainly not insaly fast but has a decent amount of poke. Does a nice little drift around the corners with a decent amount of throttle. It's VERY predictable in a slide too.  Feels so progressive! People probably presume there's a 25 year old driving it based on my behaviour this week! 🤣
    • Yeah Jap import. Fairlady Z then! I'm a bit the same.  They've been on my radar for a fair while but then just impulsively decided to buy one!  Was going to just buy an NA and add turbos to it later but decided to save the f'ing around and just buy the turbo version. 
    • Thanks mate, well done to you too! Yeah not looking forward to doing any major work to it!
×
×
  • Create New...