Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i am into r31s obviously. so call me biased.

but i can't go past the rb30e.

mine has only bout 205. i have absolutely abused the car since i bought it at 136,000. that was 2 years ago. it has sat on rev limiter for a total of about 2 hours at a motorkhana day. it's done 4.5 minute burnout in 1st gear at 6,200 in burnout pit at wsid. various others engine harming experiences where it just bounces right back.

i'm not known for engine maintenance, but car does not miss a beat

the rb30e is amazing

we know of a guy with a 31 that was done 700,000. no kiddin.

anyway i'd go so far as to say it's definitely the best engine in this country ever, if not the world.

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i am into r31s obviously. so call me biased.

but i can't go past  the rb30e.  

mine has only bout 205. i have absolutely abused the car since i bought it at 136,000. that was 2 years ago. it has sat on rev limiter for a total of about 2 hours at a motorkhana day. it's done 4.5 minute burnout in 1st gear at 6,200 in burnout pit at wsid. various others engine harming experiences where it just bounces right back.

i'm not known for engine maintenance, but car does not miss a beat

the rb30e is amazing

we know of a guy with a 31 that was done 700,000.  no kiddin.

anyway i'd go so far as to say it's definitely the best engine in this country ever, if not the world.

I can easily top that, I've an old VL toilet door thats done 1,600,000 K's on the same donk. I've gone thru 4 heads, but the donk & tranny (auto) are factory original. I bought the thing new, & it hasn't missed a beat since 1986. Thats why i've just bought an r32 gtr, which has just blown the @@##?? clutch.....

I forgot to add that the speedo shit itself at 1.5,-0000000 (is that enough zeros??) but why bother to replace it. I've currently got the car for sale but i dunno whether to tell any prospective buyers that the speedo reading is second time round ????? :Bang:

  • 1 month later...
my rb20det had approx 180,000ish just before it died, not actually sure of what happened, motor blew the day it was sold.
The day it waz sold... Thats lucky....
was it out of your hands after the engine died?

I can shed some light on it since i bought the thing, it was out of his hands and in to mine when it let go, but i knew it was f@rked and paid accordingly.

Ben you need to have stern words with who ever touched your cam belt last, it'd been put back on a whole 2 teeth out, and the chance of it jumping teeth by itself is slim. Once that was rectified it actually compression tested up reasonably well but it'd done a big end bearing on #1 cylinder so we just ripped out the engine and replaced it (60-80K engine but who knows with wreckers?).

If you're interested mate your old beast now has nice FMIC and Electronic Boost Controller only pushing 12psi but will wind it up some on the dyno next month. So far its been good to me and did Melb - Adel trip no worries.

Good luck with your Ceffy mate.

I can shed some light on it since i bought the thing, it was out of his hands and in to mine when it let go, but i knew it was f@rked and paid accordingly.

Ben you need to have stern words with who ever touched your cam belt last, it'd been put back on a whole 2 teeth out, and the chance of it jumping teeth by itself is slim. Once that was rectified it actually compression tested up reasonably well but it'd done a big end bearing on #1 cylinder so we just ripped out the engine and replaced it (60-80K engine but who knows with wreckers?).

If you're interested mate your old beast now has nice FMIC and Electronic Boost Controller only pushing 12psi but will wind it up some on the dyno next month. So far its been good to me and did Melb - Adel trip no worries.

Good luck with your Ceffy mate.

Hmm very interesting Ash. I will have to ask a few questions with that workshop ;) Don't think i will be taking the ceffy back to the same place, espec considering it will be up for a new cam belt when it gets here. Having the timing belt teeth out didn't cross my mind. And yeah i had actually tested the compression a few months before the problems started and amazingly did have a pretty even compression in all cylinders.

Otherwise it Great to hear the car is now going well!! ;) If your still using the same ECU you should be able to find someone in adelaide to do a new map for the FMIC, otherwise i'm sure sam(dr drift) will send u in the right direction.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you tried another indicator stalk? Sometimes these go bad and cause issues.
    • They're so beautiful 😍
    • Early last week, I became concerned that the car was feeling....slow. Most of my driving is commuting to/from work and there are few opportunities to get up it and convincingly make boost/power. It drives in vacuum almost all the time. But when you do occasionally get an opportunity, and.... it takes a little longer to start making power, and then there's not as much as you'd expect, and then you run out of road anyway and have to bottle out - it can be hard to be convinced that there's something wrong. But by the end of the week I was pretty convinced. Made an effort to get a decent test run. Took bloody forever to come up on boost and when it did it would only make about 50 kPa of pressure. There was no black smoke, no noise of a boost or exhaust leak, no evidence anywhere of an intercooler hose clamp being sloppy enough to let air escape. So.... not that sort of problem. Brainstorming led to thinking that the boost controller's solenoid might have failed in some way. No active boost control would just give wastegate pressure, which I was more or less getting, and the laggy behaviour could just be "normal" shitty boost response from an uncontrolled highflow. But a little extra 3rd party brainstorming led to the thought that the actuator circlip might have jumped off leaving me with a bluetooth wastegate. So, on Friday, off comes the stock heatshield (which is an annoying enough job on its own) to reveal - yup. WG is wide open. And.... it won't come back. It is jammed in the dump. Put the rod back on with a new circlip and tried driving it to get it hot in the hope that the capture was from thermal effects having been blown into the dump when hot and since cooled. Nope. Won't move, even with screwdriver mediated force when hot. Ran out of time to play. Came back to it yesterday. Unbolted the dump. Was lying under it with the dump jammed up against my guts undoing the bottom 2 bolts. Got them most of the way out and gave the dump a serious heave. It didn't noticeably move, but there was a satisfying "plink" noise from up to. Shuffle out and sure enough, gate is now closed. Nevermind that there was still the better part of an hour after that required to put it all back together. f**ken cars.
    • For your application, where you'll be at that 1/2" size or perhaps larger, yeah, excellent. Although not if you need a tight bending radius anywhere, because the corrugated stuff is not anywhere near as flexible as rubber/teflon cored stuff. But for turbo oil lines? No. Too big. They just don't do the corro stuff down at the ~1/4" ID size that you'd want, and if they did the OD of it would probably be a bit too fat for fitting it into the tight spaces available. I use hoses like that all the time for fuel gases (LPG, NG) and liquid fuels (HFO, diesels, waste oils). When we did the London Olympic cauldron, with the 204 individual burners on it, we had miles of the stuff (although a lot of that was teflon core). A bunch of that crap is still cluttering up the workshop, more than 12 years later!
    • Would something like this be an option  https://processhose.com/products/configurable-metal-hoses/1-2-in-t316-stainless-steel-annular-corrugated-configurable-flexible-metal-hose-assembly-with-ends-t304-single-braid-masterflex-af5550.html I'm looking at this for replacing the OEM EGR when installing a aftermarket intake plenum 
×
×
  • Create New...