Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does anyone know where you can buy a drivers side and passenger side boot kit?

My outer passenger and inner driver side have both started to crack damn it!

Any help appreciated.

thanks

:headspin:

any decent drive shaft place should have the boots, I got mine for my GTS4 in Brisbane from the Australian CV joint centre - about 2 years~ ago they supplied and fitted the boots(inner & outers) to the driveshafts - I took into them for about $70. The driveshaft nut that holds hub is VERY tight and I had to hire a huge socket set so I could get the bugger loose.

I dont know about any 'kits' - if you mean one where the driveshaft doesnt need to be removed, like the steering rack boot kits that you can get.

Check the specs of the grease they use against what nissan recommends in the workshop manual to make sure it is high grade enough, it will probably be better than what was available in 1990~s but check while you're at it. You will have to put grease in one side yourself and fit one boot to diff, the other side just bolts up.

Stephen

You can get them from Nissan but they are about $70 each .

Go to any auto shop and get a universal boot kit , about $12 -15 each , they have the molly grease with the kit . You dont have to remove the driveshafts from the car to replace them .

Does anyone know where you can buy a drivers side and passenger side boot kit?

My outer passenger and inner driver side have both started to crack damn it!

Any help appreciated.

thanks

:headspin:

  • 3 months later...

I have to replace the boots on mine as well as both sides have split and thrown grease all over the wheel :rofl:

I've pulled both drive shafts out .... can I take them to a CV-joint shop and get them to fix them up? ie. put new boots on, clean the original shafts and put grease in etc?

Thanks ! :(

  • 5 months later...

G'day Jerry,

can you expand on your info for the CV joint boots?

Im going to be needing to do it at some stage soon...

also I need to do the steering rack ones! do you know or have you done it with the repco kit RRB033 I have heard conflicting reports about how good a fit they are with the GTR

would be great to find a way to do both sets of boots for less than a work shop!

thanks....

G'day Jerry,

can you expand on your info for the CV joint boots?

Im going to be needing to do it at some stage soon...

also I need to do the steering rack ones! do you know or have you done it with the repco kit RRB033 I have heard conflicting reports about how good a fit they are with the GTR

would be great to find a way to do both sets of boots for less than a work shop!

thanks....

Ben ,

I dont know if you can match the steering rack boots with aftermarket ( i'm fairly sure you would be able to ) .

As for the cv boots , go to any auto shop with a sample boot and they will match it , failing that you can use the universal ones ( you cut to suit ) , there is 4, 2 on each driveshaft . You dont need to pull the shafts off the car to change but you have to release them so you can fit the new boots on . If you never done it before its best to leave it to a workshop as it is a bit of work on the gtr and i dont know your mechanical knowledge .

Why do you say you have to replace them ?Are they cracked ? Are they split ? If they are split you have to do them asap otherwise you get water in the cv's and then you have to replace them as well . The steering rack are not as critical but you should still replace them if they are split .

Edited by wrxhoon

ahhh ok....

mech knowledge is ok, just a hoist would be nice, but I could do it all here as I have now got a nice workshop at home (in adelaide)

as for the boots....

steering is spilt for sure.....

and CVs some grease has come out of a hole somewhere!!!! no idea, cant see it...

but yes they are needing some work!

will look at getting a shop to see to them if they are that much of a bitch!

thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
    • Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much
    • I ended up setting the rear 5mm higher than normal to give some clearance.  My plan is to run the least camber I can in the rear which I think with the extra width is going to need to be -1.75 to -2.00° just to get clearance.  Guards have been rolled and pulled as much as they can/I would be wanting to.  front has the Acostal knuckle with the KPI change and the drop etc. So should be okay with the existing settings I have run with AR1s etc Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7.5° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15°
×
×
  • Create New...