Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering what would be the best way to set up a car for drifting? I'm guessing things such as adjustable coilovers and front/rear strut tower bars help but what else would be the best way to set up a car for drifting for a person who accepts nothing less than the best :wassup:

Cheers,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/62369-suspension-setup-drifting/
Share on other sites

Although i'm sure alot of people drift on a viscous LSD i'm told (since i've only ever used a mechanical) that the take up of the diff (ie when it's going from open to locked) is a little laggy, also the diff can heat up alot and render the viscous pack useless, so you'll have an open diff again until it cools down (so i'm told).

A good LSD is somthing like a 1.5 way (locks up easily under accelleration and half as easily under braking loads) or a 2 way (locks up just as easily under accel and braking). I dunno what a 3 way is...

There are a few other types of LSD but mechanical clutch pack type diffs are the go for drifting.

For drifting you need a 2 way, you want to start the drift without power on. So you need the diff "locked" under brakes (hand or foot). I strongly suggest adjustable stabiliser bars, you can't easily change the springs rates for more or less traction (front and rear). You need adjustability for the different conditions. Adj stabiliser bars are the easiest way to adjust the front and rear slip angles.:P

Hey gotboost, Ive been setting up my r33 for drift. I would have to agree with sydney kid about power, it would be better to learn with less than more. First thing i would be to get a 2way mechanical type lsd, i got a tomei type which is very user friendly, doesnt clunk everywhere. then a thick rear sway bar you will be able to feel a huge difference. Suspension would be my other top priority, dont just look at at jap brands koni's and other brands you can rebuild easily and are easily revalved to suit your needs. Subframe bushes are a plus if your rear end is still feeling unstable and a hicas lock kit. Strut braces if you ask me are a bit of a wank till you do all the rest first, the re4ally dont feel much different. So do things like front castor rods next and front sway bar. Tie rod ends or steering spacers are good to give you that little bit extra lock out of corners, could also get some adjustable upper control arms as skylines have double wishbone suspension so adjustable pillowball mount strut tops arent effective. How big is the wallet, roll cage, seam welded chassis, the list goes on

For drifting you need a 2 way, you want to start the drift without power on.  

i think sydkid means that ideally you want to start the drift by breaking traction through breaks/handbreak at the entry to a corner rather than breaking traction through boost at entry. this is where the 2way diff comes in as it helps do that through breaking.

B1Fanny so the diff is locked when under decelleration and locked under acceleration,giving wheelspin/traction loss,either way.

thats my understanding. eliminates that tail snap when u take your foot off the gass with the normal diff so you can continue the drift around the corner, get off the gas and down gear and continue on your merry way.

Does anyone know how good the original R32 Skyline LSD is?

Also does anyone know where you can buy adjustable swaybars for the R32?

Original LSD, forget it. Bite the bullet and get a 2 way - huge difference to predictablility and control when the back end is out.

Whiteline make adjustable sway bars.

LOCK THE HICAS - a must.

Get some castor happening, adjustable rods arent too expensive, or bushes if you are on a budget.

Good coilovers (Tein, Kei office, Tanabe, Silk Road, etc). Make sure you buy them with spring rates suited to drift for best results.

Drift button.

Pineapples and/or hardmount cradle bushes.

Good brake pads, front and rear.

You may need to replace some of the stock bushes if they are tired/worn.

Your car will handle like a weapon :D

If you are planning extended thrash sessions, consider a good oil cooler as well.

There are alot of other mods you can do, that will all help improve steering response, feedback and handling generally, be prepared to put a huge hole in the bank account if you want to do the works.

Other things that are worth the trouble, IMHO, is mission mount, strut braces, aftermarket camber and toe adjust, and rack ends.

There are a few things to consider in all, remember you dont need them all at once - personally I would start with diff and hicas lock then go from there :)

locked diffs are cheap but can stuff you up when drifting.. mid corner if you have to adjust your line the locked diff make its hard

my tip is adjustable castor (max) and about 6 deg of neg camber and some rspec front tyres) makes the change of direction very easy at high speed and thats what you want

2 way lsd will help

then practice

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
    • thanks GTSboy. My confusion at the moment is i am trying to locate the ignition, ECU battery power and the ECU negative The closest thing i can find is the for the S15 on Page 8 of the Wiring Specialties web page https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9F33_M_GgENQnZ6STMxVmVNd1E/view?resourcekey=0-eZ4nNRwRoqa1qvKlWWHm8A I cannot find the same diagram for the R33 RB25DET Series 2 dash plug pin out.... Do you know what the Pins? or know where i can find the same pinout diagram for the RB dash plug? Thanks for the advice on the box... i like a 6 speed so might be on the lookout or the box now.. a topic of discussion for another post...
    • Will have a look at that. I cant see any leaks 
    • Put another overflow bottle (ie, a 1.25 coke bottle or similar) under the overflow hose and see if it is being pushed out there or if it is disappearing into the engine.
    • Staring on a stand is no issue. You just have to wire everything up, give it fuel and cross your fingers that the stand is robust enough. Arranging the inlet plumbing is often the hardest part, without any surrounding structure to hand some of it from. No need for coolant if you only want to run it for <1 minute. As to the gearbox - I think the little Aisin box is a bit stronger than the other small Nissan boxes that went behind SRs, but I wouldn't be too keen to test its limits with the torque of a boosted 25. I don't know if you can retain the box and the tailshaft. The box won't connect to the RB without an adapter of some sort, which is either a plate that will push the engine forward (which is not good for fitting it into the bay's available space) or push the box back, which messes with the box position and tailshaft length - OR - cut and shut work on the bellhousing, which is a long way from "least modification". I'd be buying a new 370Z 6 speed or similar, doing what has to be done to that to make it fit RB (ie, cut and shut bellhousing) and the requisite tailshaft custom/mods.
×
×
  • Create New...