Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK

those of you that have seen my recent posts will now that I have just rebuild the motor in my R32 GTR (should get the beast back this Friday). I have strengthened the bottom end and done a minor port and Polish (with a few other bits too) – but the major upgrade replaces the std turbos with a pair of N1s off an R34 V-SpecII

These are relatively small (street) turbos I know – but how much boost can I safely run – and where can I find some info (specs) on these turbos.

I've done a few searches – but didn't find too much

TIA

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/62632-n1-turbos-how-much-boost/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

My upgrade plan is as follows (in order)

Stage 1: full rebuild with forgies + the N1s – done

Stage 2: PFC + HC and dyno tune (real soon now)

Stage 3: 044 fuel pump + 700cc injectors + Splitfire coils

Stage 4: 600x300x100 FMIC + hard piping

(did I miss anything?)

I'd like to keep the boost under 20psi – just to be on the SAFE side

I'll probably do AFMs somewhere along the way too – see my post about RB25 AFMs on a GTR

The bigger FMIC will keep the temp down - yes

any guesses on a rwkw for this sort of setup

1.2bar is the most I would go, N1's perform well at that boost , At the end of the day dyno figures don't meen much it's all about power delivery and how early on your making boost which equals good times at the track .

An example of that theory would be wrxhoons's (from these forums ) r33 GTR he's running a Power FC tuned by Ben at Bel performance , n1 turbo's at 1.2bar , catback and front pipes , everything else stock even the air box and he has gone 11.7@119mph out at WSID with 60ft times that aren't all that great . The car would also perform equally well on the roundy roundy stuff as it has a usuable power delivery .

1.2bar is the most I would go, N1's perform well at that boost , At the end of the day dyno figures don't meen much it's all about power delivery and how early on your making boost which equals good times at the track .  

An example of that theory would be wrxhoons's (from these forums ) r33 GTR he's running a Power FC tuned by Ben at Bel performance  , n1 turbo's at 1.2bar , catback and front pipes , everything else stock even the air box and he has gone 11.7@119mph out at WSID  with 60ft times that aren't all that great .  The car would also perform equally well on the roundy roundy stuff as it has a usuable power delivery .

i know wrxhoons car as well and 1.2 bar would be the best or else very close to best (stock injectors were close to the limit)

also the best time was 11.7@121mph with stock wheels.

i am under the impression that there are a number of n1 housings which means some will be laggier than others.

all n1s have steel wheels, although only r34 have ball bearings.

thanks guys - this is good info

my N1s are defiantly from an R34 - and are the Steel Wheeled BB type

AFAIK the stats for them are as follows

.64 A/R ex (I think)

76 Trim

compressor is .60

I'm not expecting much lagggggg from these

supposed to be rated at 320hp each

so does that mean 2x320 = 640hp for me :)

640hp = ~480kw yes ?

corrections welcome :D

i know wrxhoons car as well and 1.2 bar would be the best or else very close to best (stock injectors were close to the limit)

also the best time was 11.7@121mph with stock wheels.

i am under the impression that there are a number of n1 housings which means some will be laggier than others.

all n1s have steel wheels, although only r34 have ball bearings.

so was wxrhoons N1 SS/BB (R34s) or not ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
×
×
  • Create New...