Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys

This is my first proper thread and i was wondering if you could help me out. My 95 GTST came with a wolf 3d v4 that was once hooked up but then taken out due to the coils breaking down. Im getting some new coils soon and just got some questions.

First question: Does the wolf retain its memory even after power has been disconnected?

If not leads me into my second question

Second question: I was wondering if anyone else has had a wolf 3D tuned in the Sydney area and are happy with the results and would recommend their tuner.

Thats all i can think of now. Appreciate anyones help :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/62820-question-on-wolf-3d/
Share on other sites

The wolf certainly wont lose its memory. You have to make changes via the controller or laptop in order for this to happen and this wont happen by accident. Get some new coils, try to start it, dont boot it cause you dont know of the previous tune, whether it was done by a numbskull or someone as skillful as Matt Spry. So best take it for a dyno run to make sure A/F ratios are safe. Small bother, but could save you big dollars if there is something wrong. Contrary to many people's opinions, the Wold3dv4 is a very good unit and I run one in my car. Plus its affordable.

The wolf certainly wont lose its memory. You have to make changes via the controller or laptop in order for this to happen and this wont happen by accident. Get some new coils, try to start it, dont boot it cause you dont know of the previous tune, whether it was done by a numbskull or someone as skillful as Matt Spry. So best take it for a dyno run to make sure A/F ratios are safe. Small bother, but could save you big dollars if there is something wrong. Contrary to many people's opinions, the Wold3dv4 is a very good unit and I run one in my car. Plus its affordable.

Thanks for that. Will do. I ve had it sittin round for a while now and getting keen for it to get hooked up . Do you reckon i should just drive stock ecu to tuner and get them to put it on the dyno and get them to hook it up. Or is there a way to check the a/f ratios without putting it on the dyno :confused: . Take into consideration i know nothing about tuning etc. I mean will it come up on the hand controller. Where abouts is Matt Spry located. :rant:

Thanks for that. Will do.  I ve had it sittin round for a while now and getting keen for it to get hooked up . Do you reckon i should just drive stock ecu to tuner and get them to put it on the dyno and get them to hook it up. Or is there a way to check the a/f ratios without putting it on the dyno    :confused: . Take into consideration i know nothing about tuning etc. I mean will it come up on the hand controller. Where abouts is Matt Spry located.   :D

Matt Spry is located on the Gold Coast in Ernest. If you need his number, ask me and I can give it to you.

I would have your car towed to a reputable tuner as driving on the Wolf start map was impossible for me and who knows what damage you could do to your engine by running it on an unknown map. You can get cheap A/F ratio meters but they're not accurate. The wolf actualy has function for this now. So you can do it this way and this should be quite accurate. It should be good enough to get your car up and running if you know how to and are risking to tune it on the road (read dangerously stupid). Bite the bullet, take it to the dyno first up, save yourself a lot of hassle and trust me that you'll be one happy chappy when your car goes hard after the tune and you alive and have your licence.

Cheers

Thanks for the replys 180bfj20det. I probably should have mentioned that its is running the standard ecu atm so im just getting around on that. Matt Spry is located in Gold Coast. Thats a bit far for me im in newcastle but i will do some searches and try to find some good tuners in sydney (ones that other people would recommend). Not too keen for anyone in newcastle heard and read a few posts and most people say their pretty sh1t. Coils should be here in a couple of days finger crossed. :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome to Skyline ownership. Yes, it is entirely possible parts websites get things wrong. There's a whole world of inaccuracies out there when it comes to R34 stuff (and probably 33 and 32). Lots of things that are 'just bolt on, entirely interchangable' aren't. Even between S1 and S2 R34's. Yes they have a GTT item supposedly being 296mm. This is incorrect. I would call whoever you got them from and return them and let them know the GTT actually uses 310mm rotors. Depending on where you got them from your experience and success will obviously vary.
    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
    • @GTSBoy yeah sorry i know thery are known for colors bud those DBA are too in colors 🙂 Green will be good enough for me  
×
×
  • Create New...