Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

pnblight: You've spent a portion of this thread bitching about "eastern" people, leave that shit out of his thread...

this car is actually the perfect example why we "eastern whingers" call your quoted power bullshit, look at his mods compared to yours, and he has 90rwhp less, bullshit its just that his figures realistic and his motor is actually built properley

600hp thats a damn impressive list man, should be wicked on the circuit

well if you did your figures you would realise as myself and 600hp there is no where 90hp between us i figure is in 2wd and the other in 4 wd one in kw the other inhp

529rwhp=394rwkw - 44kw or something for the rw to awd figure and well we end up with 350AWKW

compared to 332AWKW

so do you figure correctly before opening your mouth (and the 18kw (is a it different to 90hp) or so is most likely due to the turbo size different)

what you think of this convertion 600hp sound close

even mario said the gt-ss is capable of 350awkw so why would garret be the same

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

In the risk of opening up another can of worms here, I haven't experienced any difference in power output between 2WD and 4WD dynos.

Admittedly, I haven't been on a 4WD dyno in the past three years, so I am not sure if there has been major differences in the software.

i can asure you if you make 300 at 2 you will not 300 at 4 there are loses ,the size of which are debatiable ,so i'll leave % to someone who works with dyno every day to lightin us .I think alot of the problem is when we talk in different figures (RWHP to AWKW)

emre based on my experience, I had a 20kw difference between 2wd, to 4wd dyno's. One was at Sti Dockland's and the other when nige took it to bens. chances are though you could be correct, and the variables associated with dyno's could be inconsistant numbers. However based on that, one would say that pnblight needs to shut his big mouth before blasting others, especially coz I reckon your he's an idiot!!. A loss is a loss "drivetrain example" and it's been established not be a % loss as this is inaccurate, evidence has shown around 70-90kw (need to confirm with SK, as he did the test) from engine to rear wheels on a GTR.. so before pnblightningbolt "as usual open that pig headed mouth of his" know the facts...." and do us all the favour you can't spell for sh!t, learn to spell, it gives me a headache reading your posts over & over".. would make life so much easier... EDIT: >> to help the less than fortunate big mouth from the west.. here's a link to the fixed loss vs %loss http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=30238

I think alot of the problem is when we talk in different figures (RWHP to AWKW)

I don't think so pal.

I am able to differentiate the two, may be you are not.

The figures I gave you in the other thread were all rw readings.

The point I've been trying to make for a very long time is that, there really is no point in quoting dyno figures as they are pretty hard to compare from one to another. Most of the times, they give us comparable results, but often we find ourselves in a debate defending power claims. Funnily enough, all the threads with claims of power are originated from WA. Do you have a need to prove yourselves that much that we read about your extra ordinary achievements regularly, in the name of helping other people.

600hp,

You have a very impressive list of mods there mate, no expenses were spared by the look of things. Regarding future mods, (like a plenum) I would suggest you to do you homework carefully and make sure you are not misunderstanding anything. 22 psi @ 2500 rpm is extremely dramatic.

I just find it very puzzling that Nissan would go through a lot of R&D and develop a multi throttle system on their flagship, for people to dismiss it. How many other manufacturers can you name to develop a 4-6-8 throttle intake on a mass produced vehicle...?

The point I've been trying to make for a very long time is that' date=' there really is no point in quoting dyno figures as they are pretty hard to compare from one to another. Most of the times, they give us comparable results, but often we find ourselves in a debate defending power claims. Funnily enough, all the threads with claims of power are originated from WA. Do you have a need to prove yourselves that much that we read about your extra ordinary achievements regularly, in the name of helping other people.

I agree. The quoting of dyno figures as a thread topic is not an exclusive WA issue I'm sure you would agree. We are presently in a non-WA thread that started that way. It doesn't really matter. I can easily see why people get their backs up when they place too great a value on their dyno figures. People making the criticisim's are also clearly too infatuated with the glorified toilet paper.

Threads like this one can serve to help others from a 'tuning' point of view. The matching of components and more importantly tuning settings (always lacking I'm afraid) are good to look over and discuss. Lets move on from the Peak horsepower figure it's not that important. I personally couldn't care less if the GT-SS turbo's made such and such a persons car generate a peice of paper with 330rwkw somewhere on it. I'm more interested in what the turbo's are like from a real performance point of veiw , and if they are good, the tune process taken to make them work well.

this thread is from sydney!

and i'm only repeating what i was told from CRD when it comes to power and what boost at what RPM.

as for look at the research that nisan has put into the 6 throttles then why did they have to re do it when they made the Z-tune skyline.

it looks like i may have found a JUN plenum someone is selling and since this plenum has been do before at CRD and had good results, it looks like this is the one to go.

i had a look at the Kaminali intake, it uses a sub-zero throttle body.

both i think are 80mm (SZR is).

as for the whole debate about power all i know is that pnblight has run an 11.3 or something like that and we would love to go as quick as that.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That R31 was so cool. Only did Orange Park once. Scared the hell out of me.
    • Selling my TE37SLs since I've switched to smaller wheels.  They're for sale in Japan but it's pretty simple to send them overseas; USA excluded, since JPPost isn't sending there at the moment. Specs Front: 18x9.5j +22 5x114 Rear: 18x10j +20 5x114 Price: 320,000 JPY/ 3,285 AUD (current FX rate) Condition: a few scratches here and there, no bends, distortions or cracks.  Tires will not be included for international buyers, I'll get them dismounted before shipping. They're currently listed on yahoo auction and will be shipped in Japan with the tires if they sell here. Shipping costs to Aus: EMS (1-2 weeks): AUD 1,175 (current FX rate) Sea (2 months): AUD 460  (current FX rate)
    • The alloy coolant reservoir has a sight glass, so as long as I can see coolant in the sight glass it's GTG, as for PS, it isn't anything catastrophic if it gets low, and as it hasn't lost a drop since I have owned the car I cannot see it being an issue, even after putting the "big block" 2.5 in....LOL The only time it gets slightly messy is at oil changes, as the oil filter sits above the frame, and I need to use a plastic bottle with its bottom cut off to catch the flow when loosening the filter
    • Good on you for taking on the job, but it is a big one. Even if you have bolt on manifold and turbo, you will need: Post throttle pressure source to boost controller to wastegate (and FPR, and ECU/MAP sensor) Pre throttle pressure source to top of BOV(s) Oil feed - you can take that from the standard port in the middle of the block Oil return to block under the turbo - this is much trickier than it seems to route a decent/wide pipe past the manifold. You really can't use rubber hose because it is way too hot there, and also the oil out of the turbo core is a bit frothy so it needs to have a decent diameter Water feed - you can take that from the standard port in the rear of the block. Water return - mine runs to a T into the heater box return, just make sure you don't create a high point making bleeding hard. All of those lines should use 200 series style teflon braided hose with heat shielding because everything needs to be routed past the manifold. Also a turbo beanie is a really good idea to minimise the chance of the car catching fire (under bonnet lining in particular) You also need to decide a cam cover breathing solution as well, will you vent externally via a catch can (probably illegal) or return to the intake (plumbing required and can oil up everything over time) Keep in mind the intake and exhaust piping in the engine bay will be custom so you either need to be able to fab ally and steel or have someone you can get a car that isn't running to. Get the wideband fitting welded into the dump pipe at the same time. Also, just my opinion, a screamer pipe attracts attention and doesn't add power, I'd plumb it back if you want to be allowed to keep the car on the road. BTW do you know anything about how healthy the motor is, and what power you are targeting? Doubling or tripling the factory power on an unknown motor is a little risky. Also fuel system will need some attention (pumps, high current hanger, direct power and earth feed, injectors etc)
    • Wrinkle black will be a thing for both
×
×
  • Create New...