Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

pnblight: You've spent a portion of this thread bitching about "eastern" people, leave that shit out of his thread...

this car is actually the perfect example why we "eastern whingers" call your quoted power bullshit, look at his mods compared to yours, and he has 90rwhp less, bullshit its just that his figures realistic and his motor is actually built properley

600hp thats a damn impressive list man, should be wicked on the circuit

well if you did your figures you would realise as myself and 600hp there is no where 90hp between us i figure is in 2wd and the other in 4 wd one in kw the other inhp

529rwhp=394rwkw - 44kw or something for the rw to awd figure and well we end up with 350AWKW

compared to 332AWKW

so do you figure correctly before opening your mouth (and the 18kw (is a it different to 90hp) or so is most likely due to the turbo size different)

what you think of this convertion 600hp sound close

even mario said the gt-ss is capable of 350awkw so why would garret be the same

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

In the risk of opening up another can of worms here, I haven't experienced any difference in power output between 2WD and 4WD dynos.

Admittedly, I haven't been on a 4WD dyno in the past three years, so I am not sure if there has been major differences in the software.

i can asure you if you make 300 at 2 you will not 300 at 4 there are loses ,the size of which are debatiable ,so i'll leave % to someone who works with dyno every day to lightin us .I think alot of the problem is when we talk in different figures (RWHP to AWKW)

emre based on my experience, I had a 20kw difference between 2wd, to 4wd dyno's. One was at Sti Dockland's and the other when nige took it to bens. chances are though you could be correct, and the variables associated with dyno's could be inconsistant numbers. However based on that, one would say that pnblight needs to shut his big mouth before blasting others, especially coz I reckon your he's an idiot!!. A loss is a loss "drivetrain example" and it's been established not be a % loss as this is inaccurate, evidence has shown around 70-90kw (need to confirm with SK, as he did the test) from engine to rear wheels on a GTR.. so before pnblightningbolt "as usual open that pig headed mouth of his" know the facts...." and do us all the favour you can't spell for sh!t, learn to spell, it gives me a headache reading your posts over & over".. would make life so much easier... EDIT: >> to help the less than fortunate big mouth from the west.. here's a link to the fixed loss vs %loss http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=30238

I think alot of the problem is when we talk in different figures (RWHP to AWKW)

I don't think so pal.

I am able to differentiate the two, may be you are not.

The figures I gave you in the other thread were all rw readings.

The point I've been trying to make for a very long time is that, there really is no point in quoting dyno figures as they are pretty hard to compare from one to another. Most of the times, they give us comparable results, but often we find ourselves in a debate defending power claims. Funnily enough, all the threads with claims of power are originated from WA. Do you have a need to prove yourselves that much that we read about your extra ordinary achievements regularly, in the name of helping other people.

600hp,

You have a very impressive list of mods there mate, no expenses were spared by the look of things. Regarding future mods, (like a plenum) I would suggest you to do you homework carefully and make sure you are not misunderstanding anything. 22 psi @ 2500 rpm is extremely dramatic.

I just find it very puzzling that Nissan would go through a lot of R&D and develop a multi throttle system on their flagship, for people to dismiss it. How many other manufacturers can you name to develop a 4-6-8 throttle intake on a mass produced vehicle...?

The point I've been trying to make for a very long time is that' date=' there really is no point in quoting dyno figures as they are pretty hard to compare from one to another. Most of the times, they give us comparable results, but often we find ourselves in a debate defending power claims. Funnily enough, all the threads with claims of power are originated from WA. Do you have a need to prove yourselves that much that we read about your extra ordinary achievements regularly, in the name of helping other people.

I agree. The quoting of dyno figures as a thread topic is not an exclusive WA issue I'm sure you would agree. We are presently in a non-WA thread that started that way. It doesn't really matter. I can easily see why people get their backs up when they place too great a value on their dyno figures. People making the criticisim's are also clearly too infatuated with the glorified toilet paper.

Threads like this one can serve to help others from a 'tuning' point of view. The matching of components and more importantly tuning settings (always lacking I'm afraid) are good to look over and discuss. Lets move on from the Peak horsepower figure it's not that important. I personally couldn't care less if the GT-SS turbo's made such and such a persons car generate a peice of paper with 330rwkw somewhere on it. I'm more interested in what the turbo's are like from a real performance point of veiw , and if they are good, the tune process taken to make them work well.

this thread is from sydney!

and i'm only repeating what i was told from CRD when it comes to power and what boost at what RPM.

as for look at the research that nisan has put into the 6 throttles then why did they have to re do it when they made the Z-tune skyline.

it looks like i may have found a JUN plenum someone is selling and since this plenum has been do before at CRD and had good results, it looks like this is the one to go.

i had a look at the Kaminali intake, it uses a sub-zero throttle body.

both i think are 80mm (SZR is).

as for the whole debate about power all i know is that pnblight has run an 11.3 or something like that and we would love to go as quick as that.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...