Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have an R33 Skyline GTS-T Turbo automatic.

Anyone had a problem with the tacho (RPM) part of the cluster not working properly?

Mine seems to gradually run clockwires from 0 all the way round past 9000rpm over the space of about an hour. I have tried to obtain a second dash cluster but I cannot seem to find one cheap. It has worked once or twice at times, but very rarely.

Is this an issue with the tacho, or the connection?

Anyone know where to get a dash cluster fairly cheap?

Thanks.

BOOMAU

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63005-my-tacho-is-screwed/
Share on other sites

Pull out the instrument cluster. you have to take out the plastic dash shroud that covers the steering wheel, and the one around the aircond/deck. There are 3 plugs so dont worry about not being able to put it back together again. Unplug and reconnect. You may want to check the connection running into the ECU in the passenger side kickpanel...this is held in by a bolt so doubtful that its that.

May be the actual tacho itself, surely you can just buy a replacement tachometer and slot that into the intrument panel instead of buying the whole lot. you could probably give it a crack yourself and if you run into any problems go see an autoelec.

Pulled out the whole dash, checked all the connectors to make sure that they were all securely conntected and replaced it all.

Still not working....

Anyway, because there is power going to the tacho I really dont know what is going on, the tacho is still moving slowly from 0rpm to over 9000rpm over the space of 1/2 hour.

Obviously the tacho is working on some level, idle and running of the car is fine, I just got no idea what rpm I am doin and it is really starting to bug me.

Thanks for the help, guess only other solution is to try another tacho, cluster and see if that works.

BOOMAU

mine does what yours does too, and fcuk, it is the most annoying ever!!! Its almost comming to the point not im just going to leave it faulty, and run an aftermarket 3 3/4" tacho.. seems like a better idea to me.. plus might be cheaper!!!

let me know if a new cluster fixes it though..

I had (still have) problems with the speedo which is a common prob due to wind backs.

Goes straight to 60km/h weather your doing 10km/h or 120km/h

I wasn't going to spend money fixing it when you can get an APEXi RSM instead.

Exactly what i did and i love it :D

Good for those 0-100 times too. and removes the speed cut.

..and looks sexy!

Probably get one 2nd hand for $250 maybe?

But yeah, has revs too and mine is just velcro'd inside the dash

Plus everyone knows having a quick glance at a tacho or speedo neddle is easier to recognise to the brain than a digital readout. Plus a tacho with its needle design looks heaps better when you rev it up.... Its like almost there, almost..... yeah redline....

True, but when they check it if i get pulled over it goes to zero whcih is correct.

Hehe :D

Plus i can get rid of it if cops are around.

Rip it off and hide it under something (unless they search the cabin off course)

Also, you can set it up so the ecreen will flash at any rev level you want.

One bad thing i don't like about it, which doesn't happen very often, is the sun glare off the glass/plastic face. Normal speedos don't seem to reflect at all so you can always see the speed. Not so with the RSM, but definatley livable.

Definatley a cover up option like you said, but so good at it, i aint fixing the speedo.

it happens to mine, but what i did was i pulled out the whole dash bit and if you pull back the front back of the tacho with all the numbers on it tap the unit behind there or check the wires.. i hit mine and had it connected still with the car running and it starting working again.

Wow, might just try that, I had the tacho out yesterday and once I got it out and checked the connectors to see if they were securely in, I just put the stupid thing back.

I might try it again and see if I can pull off the glass front cover and peel back the tacho cover bit and give it a few taps (possibly punches depending on how frustrated I get with it hehe) check the wires and see if that does anything.

Are there any problems just hooking the tacho up with everything else unplugged (ie aircon, hazard, dash light dimmer, etc)?

I wouldn't think so, but possibly thought that if something wasn't plugged in, car would sense that and somehow screw up the computer.

Anyway, thanks all for the ongoing help with this one, if I figure it out, I might post a thread on what I did in detail for others to try.

Hitting the dyno today, with my stock standard R33, hopefully everything is A OK under the hood so I can start tweakin my little baby up.

Cheers all

BOOMAU

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...