Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can anyone help me with a manual or any info on one of these ??

I got this one seconhand and the seller promised me the connection info, but...:cool:

Anyway, I've figured most of it out by bench testing, but there are a few things that I haven't (eg there's a green wire on one connector that goes no-where/ also there's a pot and a couple of switches on one side, probably for callibration (?)).

Any help appreciated. I've done a web search with no real luck.

TIA

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6347-help-with-ms-fbc/
Share on other sites

Originally posted by meggala

never heard of them are they a boost controiller or something else?

Yes, it's a fuzzy logic boost controller. It was cheap, and seems to work OK on the bench, but probably have to play around with it on the car to find out more it seems.

Alternatively, know anyone that can read Japanese ?? - there are some labels on the thing which might help explain matters - I can take some photo's and post them......

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6347-help-with-ms-fbc/#findComment-95408
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Hey, i have a friend who also bought one of these boost controlers, it appears to be a limited production model from Mines, if M's stands for mines, that is specifically designed for a specific shop.

I have not been able to find any information in the web about this product, have you found an installation manual or something that i could use as well?

Later,

______________

Claudio RX-7

Tuning Technology Unlimited - For RX-7's and the Performance Markets

www.tuningtechnology.com

info@tuningtechnology.com

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6347-help-with-ms-fbc/#findComment-616167
Share on other sites

Hello agian,

I did some preliminary testing on a stock SR20DET powered S13 Nissan 240SX. Installed it the following way:

5 Pin Connector:

Red - 12v battery

Black - Ground

White - Solenoid connector

Pink - Solenoid connector

Green - LED screen dimmer, to be hooked up to the light switch so the leds dont shine so much at night.

The hoses on the solenoid are a little tricky, since ive only worked by ear with this thing, just went on experience with other boost control solenoids:

Thin hose fitting goes to a vaccum sourse (the one used for the pressure regulator for example). The hose fittingin the middle and on the bottom of the unit i did 2 test with them switched around between the wastegate/actuator and one of them and the other to where the waste gate goes connected (a fitting on the plenum/intake manifold).

Here are the results:

First test, set what apears to be a low boost setting to ".00" apparently this setting didnt want to fix any values to memory for some odd reason, and the high boost setting to ".60" bars. When you press the "power" button on the unit i have here, there is a LED light that turns on or off, apparently this is how this unit switches between low boost and high boost, the unit doesnt have an off button.

If i run the unit with this LED on the boost reached was the factory WG level of 6psi. If i shut that LED off then aparently the unit will have the solenoid shut off or fully closed cause in second gear the car reached 1.2 bars, which was not what we set it to.

Second test i switched the main hoses around, and tried again turning the "power led" on and off, this way nothing happened and boost reached was 6psi.

Next test was switching back the main hoses back to how they where first, and move the dip switch in the back of the unit that says P and S and also, nothing happend from doing this.

Will test more later and post the resuts here. If anybody knows anybody that can get these manuals please, post here. Thanks

Later,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6347-help-with-ms-fbc/#findComment-617526
Share on other sites

I've 'sort of' figured out most of it from just playing around. It's fitted to my car and 'seems' to be working OK, but 'fuzzy' logic devices can 'learn' your engine characteristics (probably fairly crude), so they need some running time to adapt to your engine, and I haven't had the time to do much more with it.

What I can tell you is this:

- the unit needs to be connected to a constant 12V source (ie direct to the battery, NOT switched on/off via ign switch). The controller senses engine running or not via it's inbuilt MAP sensor, so switchs itself on/off accordingly. Otherwise you loose your settings each time.

- The 'WN' switch on the side of the unit sets 'wide' and 'narrow' boost control ranges, and the pot near it (white knob) is a further 'fine tuning' control within each range. This is NOT the boost control range of the unit itself (eg 0.5-1.5 bar) but the characteristic response of the controller at the set boost level. For example, setting a narrow control range will force the controller to give a 'hard' cut at the set level, but a wider range will allow some over-shoot and give a 'softer' transition for the waste gate. I suspect this setting is to provide for different types of wastegates/turbo/engine/driver characteristics.

.

- the PS switch seems to allow a 'normal' and 'inverse' operation of the wastegate solenoid. In one direction (can't remember), the controller operates the solenoid 'closed', while in the other it operates it 'open'. Again, this just seems to be to allow for different types of wastegate/turbo, etc.

The LED on the display you mention is simply an on/off indicator for the controller, ie when 'on' the LED indicates that boost control is in operation, when 'off', no control is in effect other than via the factory wastegate. I can hear the solenoid on my controller 'clicking' when I turn the unit on/off that way. Of course, how the solenoid is connected to the wastegate, and the position of the PS switch, is critical to correct operation of the controller

Thanks for the info on the green wire, that was one that had me puzzled. The '00' setting is the other one that has me beat....can't seem to change it and not sure what it's for. Other than that, my unit seems to work, but I haven't been able to acheive consistant boost control results with it. That may be due to the need for the sytem to 'learn' more, but anyway.

As to the 'mines thing, might well be, but no one has been able to get me a manual. Someone on another list was kind enough to translate the Japanese writing based on the pictures I posted. Wasn't a huge help, but better than nothing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6347-help-with-ms-fbc/#findComment-617687
Share on other sites

As to the 'mines thing, might well be, but no one has been able to get me a manual. Someone on another list was kind enough to translate the Japanese writing based on the pictures I posted. Wasn't a huge help, but better than nothing.

Thanks SteveL for that additional bit of information, i guess we will have to keep tweaking it, also, can you scan what the translation of the lable says and post it, or write it on here? i can figure out a little of it, but not a whole much, also, what really has me puzzeled is the 2 dip switches, you already cleared one up, but the other one has me scratching my head.

What really had me worried was the fact that the boost controller, when i turned the led off with the power button, spiked boost to 1.2 bars in 2ng gear, meaning it had the wastegate closed, i guess it was from having the hoses reversed, but i dont know.

Let me know what you can,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6347-help-with-ms-fbc/#findComment-618044
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
    • Ha ha ha, so they stopped the bearings spinning on the one you want, but then decided the crank hub should slip instead 😛   Stick to RB, at least you can work on it yourself. And now it doesn't smell of vapour   Also I still believe there's a chance your new flap doesn't "pop", as even though the engine might breath hard, it has a direct path with no restriction to the inlet, which when on boost should pull a bit of suction for you. If you do get pressure in the catch can id be very intrigued. Time to put a boost gauge on it, and a session at the track, then solid cover your vent and do another session
×
×
  • Create New...