Jump to content
SAU Community

Installing boost gauge and turbosmart boost controller.

Atreyu

By Atreyu,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Atreyu Rising Star

Atreyu

Posted
Posted

Hi, I am planning to install a boost gauge and boost controller this weekend and I need some quick advice. The boost controller is a manual bleed type and I know that it goes between the inlet pipe and the wastegate actuator. I think that is correct?? The boost gauge is a mechanical type and has hose and a t-piece. What I need to know is where to put it and if it goes on the same spot as the boost controller does it go before or after the boost controller?? I am not sure and I dont want to stuff anything up. Also is 10psi safe on a standard motor. It has a full 3 inch exhaust/cat and a pod. Standard intercooler. My boost gauge like most reads in bar. Where abouts is 10psi?

Cheers.

TTT Grand Master

TTT

Posted
Posted

the boost gauge line needs to go to a vacuum line that is after the throttle body.

you can use the same one that the bov uses or same one that the fuel regulator uses, or even the one that the EGR stuff uses.

any of those vacuum lines will be fine. all you do is cut the hose, and "T" in your boost gauge.

R33TypeMS2Wooshka Enthusiast

R33TypeMS2Wooshka

Posted
Posted

yea i found but this is on my r33 gts... is that where the DASH boost gauge hose goes into on top of the plenum [top back] there if ur looking directly at the engine drivers side is on ur left n shit... the right hand side of the plenum on the underside just behind ur throttle body there is a vacuum hose [mine for some reason was plugged up probably cause someone had a boost guage before me in it and took it out]... thats where i was told to put mine,n ot sure if the plenum has the same fundamentals for u,b ut i know theres one for it :P just gotta have a squizz mate...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • The Bogan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • davemoto63
      My new to me M35 Stagea wagon

      By davemoto63 · Posted

    • davemoto63
      My new to me M35 Stagea wagon

      By davemoto63 · Posted

      Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...