Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sup Guys

I just wanted an idea as to what air filters you's are using on your "line's" i been told apexi is prolly one of the best if not the best and i have seen on tests that this is true but i still don't believe it what yall think i was thinkin in terms of the trust airinx or blitz sus filter

i dun wanna spend more then 350

thanx

adrian

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6373-which-air-filter-to-use/
Share on other sites

Keep away from foam and oil filters as they can reduce the life of your air flow meter. The Blitz is good if it has a good base plate. Don't forget the K&N stuff.. it's also cheaper.

You should've posted this in the aus mainatiance section.. you would have got more resposes.

The Blitz has the worst filtration. The HKS has the worst flow and the 2nd worst filtration. Go the K&N (IMHO).

I've heard from a very good source that certain cheap cotton/oil pod filters made in 3rd world countries are able to make more power than any other filter. Able to make more power than even an open pipe! Don't have any brand names, but they're the style that have a funnel shaped opening on the end. Don't believe me? Ask SST.

yeah thats the thing

that website taka kaira is selling tha trust airinx for 145.00 aussie dollars and it'll be bout 40-50 bucks for freight in tha end only cost max $210 when i asked round perth for one i was quoted at like 350-400 dollars

its either apexi or trust

i have nuthin against kn it's just i personally dun like em

Grandenko's right.

I put one of these "Apexi" copies on my old S15 and tried it against 2 other brands on SSTs dyno. The cheaper one actually made more power than the open pipe!

I've still got it at home and you can try it out for nought if you want to wait until mid December when I get back to Perth.

I typed almost the same thing in the other air filter thread,

APEXi - Evolution R, speak to Mao, about $160 bolts on, small little thing, sounds fantastic, takes about 10 mins to install if not less. just make sure you remember that the air flow meter bolts on the outside of the air box, not the ones on the inside, they are welded on nuts. heres me spraying that loosening stuff on a welded on bolt, should have unbolted the AFM to begin with , lol

laters

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • Did some FASTing ...got the impression that the actual part# was a moot point ; seems all of these hardlines for coolant are discontinued/NLA... like, I take it you're after the hardline that bolts onto to the manifold...that's NLA according to amayama & nengun .... ...just to clear up some confusion, they typically mounted the AAC valve to the intake manifold somewhere near a coolant passage, so the body of the valve heats up & holds it open when engine's up to temp - no coolant flows through the valve, it's a mechanical, thermal connection.
×
×
  • Create New...