Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sup Guys

I just wanted an idea as to what air filters you's are using on your "line's" i been told apexi is prolly one of the best if not the best and i have seen on tests that this is true but i still don't believe it what yall think i was thinkin in terms of the trust airinx or blitz sus filter

i dun wanna spend more then 350

thanx

adrian

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6373-which-air-filter-to-use/
Share on other sites

Keep away from foam and oil filters as they can reduce the life of your air flow meter. The Blitz is good if it has a good base plate. Don't forget the K&N stuff.. it's also cheaper.

You should've posted this in the aus mainatiance section.. you would have got more resposes.

The Blitz has the worst filtration. The HKS has the worst flow and the 2nd worst filtration. Go the K&N (IMHO).

I've heard from a very good source that certain cheap cotton/oil pod filters made in 3rd world countries are able to make more power than any other filter. Able to make more power than even an open pipe! Don't have any brand names, but they're the style that have a funnel shaped opening on the end. Don't believe me? Ask SST.

yeah thats the thing

that website taka kaira is selling tha trust airinx for 145.00 aussie dollars and it'll be bout 40-50 bucks for freight in tha end only cost max $210 when i asked round perth for one i was quoted at like 350-400 dollars

its either apexi or trust

i have nuthin against kn it's just i personally dun like em

Grandenko's right.

I put one of these "Apexi" copies on my old S15 and tried it against 2 other brands on SSTs dyno. The cheaper one actually made more power than the open pipe!

I've still got it at home and you can try it out for nought if you want to wait until mid December when I get back to Perth.

I typed almost the same thing in the other air filter thread,

APEXi - Evolution R, speak to Mao, about $160 bolts on, small little thing, sounds fantastic, takes about 10 mins to install if not less. just make sure you remember that the air flow meter bolts on the outside of the air box, not the ones on the inside, they are welded on nuts. heres me spraying that loosening stuff on a welded on bolt, should have unbolted the AFM to begin with , lol

laters

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
×
×
  • Create New...