Jump to content
SAU Community

4WD light on GTR

REDGTT

By REDGTT,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

It means intermittently there's a problem with the 4WD system.

In the boot, in the RH corner, behind the lining, there's a fluid reservoir. Check the fluid level is between the marks (check with engine running). Takes auto-trans fluid.

Otherwise, there's a faulty earth contact (maybe, have fun finding that one!). But I would lay money on the fluid reservoir.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6413-4wd-light-on-gtr/#findComment-96131
Share on other sites
Silver-Arrowz Grand Master

Silver-Arrowz

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by blind_elk

It means intermittently there's a problem with the 4WD system.

In the boot, in the RH corner, behind the lining, there's a fluid reservoir. Check the fluid level is between the marks (check with engine running). Takes auto-trans fluid.

Otherwise, there's a faulty earth contact (maybe, have fun finding that one!). But I would lay money on the fluid reservoir.

I think its somewhere different on R33. Can someone confirm this.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6413-4wd-light-on-gtr/#findComment-96178
Share on other sites
rh9gtr Apprentice

rh9gtr

Posted
Posted

My car also does the same but it happens if the car is idling for more than 2 mins.. You can actually hear the 4WD drive pumps running and as the light turns on the pump turns of at the same time... while in traffic i turn the car off and then back on and it back in 4WD drive mode...If i take of while the light is on then its in RWD....

This is quite annoying especially as i drive it everyday in Sydney peak hour...So if there is a fix it would be great...And yes i have check the fluid already..

Nick

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6413-4wd-light-on-gtr/#findComment-96316
Share on other sites
Guest ylwgtr

Guest ylwgtr

Posted
Posted

I dont think the reservoir being full or near empty is that important...if its bone dry maybe but as long as there is oil in there.....and someone correct me if i am wrong but i think it doesnt have anything to do with the split drive system...I had an R33 GTR before and have replaced the clutch in it myself and it looks as tho that oil is the feeder for the gearbox oil...i was under the assumption that the gear box works on the Drysump principal....i may be wrong but thats what i can gather and it looks like the split is further towards the front of the gearbox on via a clutch pack in the transfer case ....i would be checking for computer related problems ...run an on board self diagnosis test and see if you can extract and codes from the ecu.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6413-4wd-light-on-gtr/#findComment-96679
Share on other sites
REDGTT Grand Master

REDGTT

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Originally posted by blind_elk

It means intermittently there's a problem with the 4WD system.

In the boot, in the RH corner, behind the lining, there's a fluid reservoir. Check the fluid level is between the marks (check with engine running). Takes auto-trans fluid.

Otherwise, there's a faulty earth contact (maybe, have fun finding that one!). But I would lay money on the fluid reservoir.

O k I just went to check it out. The the empty max mark is halfway on the bottle which the fluid should be in between right?

The bottle on my car is "totally" full!

Can this make the light come on?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6413-4wd-light-on-gtr/#findComment-97146
Share on other sites
nis14 Rookie

nis14

Posted
Posted

Does your abs light flicker before the 4WD light comes on?

The bottom part of the reservoir is the return. If the air gap between the fluid in the bottom and the top part is the big you may need to bleed the 4WD system. There is a max gap something like 5 or 10 mm.

Another common problem is earthing.

You can get an error code out of the 4WD computer. I forget how to do that, I can look it up in the manual on the weekend.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6413-4wd-light-on-gtr/#findComment-97447
Share on other sites
REDGTT Grand Master

REDGTT

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Originally posted by nis14

Does your abs light flicker before the 4WD light comes on?

The bottom part of the reservoir is the return. If the air gap between the fluid in the bottom and the top part is the big you may need to bleed the 4WD system. There is a max gap something like 5 or 10 mm.

Another common problem is earthing.

You can get an error code out of the 4WD computer. I forget how to do that, I can look it up in the manual on the weekend.

Thanks much appreciated. I will will drain my fluid to the correct level first and then bleed if I have too. I will wait for the error code posting

Thankyou once again.

Hey RH9GTR I know how you feel LOL

Its annoying!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6413-4wd-light-on-gtr/#findComment-97459
Share on other sites
nis14 Rookie

nis14

Posted
Posted

There is a procedure to bleed the 4wd system. From memory on a 32gtr it goes something like,

1. fill the reservoir to about 3 cm over the max.

2. remove the air from the bleed valve on the unit above the rear diff.

3. turn the ignition on

4. disconnect the bleed connector which is behind the kick panel near the accellerator pedal. It should be a white or yellow wire with an inline connector that you need to disconnect. You should hear the pump start for a couple of seconds.

5. there is a bleed valve on the back of the gearbox/transfer case, you need to unscrew it nearly all the way, then open and close it quickly for 1 sec at a time. You should hear the pump pulse then close then value. Do this until all the air has gone.

6. there is pipe (the return) on the side of the reservoir on the tail light side (the reservoir is on the right hand side in a r32). Open this to drain the excess fluid by connecting and disconnecting the bleed connector near the accellerator pedal. The pump should turn on when you connect the bleed connector if not turn the ignition off and off then try again.

7. connect the bleed connecter and turn off the ignition.

Sorry for the confusing explaination, it is easier with pictures although the engrish in the manuals is probably worse.

Unfortunately this didn't help my friend, his problem is abs or electrical related.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6413-4wd-light-on-gtr/#findComment-97526
Share on other sites
OZ GTR35 Veteran

OZ GTR35

Posted
Posted

DR,

I have the same problem, except my ALSD light comes on as well. If the fluid is over 12 months old replace it. Mine is just getting to 12 months now and I have noticed that the lights are starting to come on more frequent. Bleed the system almost completely making sure you keep re-filling the 4WD Bottle.

I have also noticed that removing the connection from the computer under the back shelf and using some connector cleaner on the plugs also stops bad joints which also can bring the light on. If this does not fix it, then sell it and buy another one. I have a friend who spent $20k and 10 months and he could not find anyone in Sydney who could fix it. His come on continuously so it was a slightly different story.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6413-4wd-light-on-gtr/#findComment-101273
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Turbodoc
      Noobie Stagea owner..

      By Turbodoc · Posted

      Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • GTSBoy
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...