Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey i just recently purchased a r33 S1, and am goign through the process of workign out whats been done...

As far as i know it has the following

GCG Hi-flow turbo (happily discovered last night)

Aftermarket dump pipe welded onto a hi-flow cat, and i think 3" exhast thereafter.

HKS Pod Filter

Blitz FMIC

GFB BOV

Turbosmart Dual Stage Boost Controller

Apexi Turbo Timer

Stock ECU

Now I am thinking about upgrading the fuel pump, so i opened up the cover in the boot, and just see a few fuel hoses and sum gland thing.... which everythign goes down into... Do i have to take this gland thing off the find out what fuel pump i have. If someone can enlighten me on this process it would be great, and also how to tell if its a stock fuel pump in there now.

I was also thinking if the car may have injectors? or would this require the mapping of an aftermarket ecu? hence ruling out injectors?

That said I will soon be installing a PFC, and not sure wether i should get the PFC Boost Control add-on... or another after market electronic boost controller, such as an AVC-R? I would prefer to stick with a PFC addon, as dont really want extra gadgets unneccesarily, however am unsure of the accuracey, reliability and the ability for a PFC B-controller to hold boost, and wether boost can be tuned through the rev range with this unit?

Also i want to install an oil catch can some time this week, however all the cans i have seen only have 1 inlet 1 outlet.... i want a 100% plumback can, that i can have easy access to baffle, and require 2 inlets and 2 outlets.. should i just use "T joiners" or will this restrict flow. Am i better of just making my own?

Sorry bout the overly long post... just wishign to clear up a few things i am unsure of... thanx in advance, and please keep the suggestions reasonable... and dont go suggesting i get this and this and that to get 500rwkw.. more than happy to get 250rwkw at the end of the day

:) thanx

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/64154-whats-been-done/
Share on other sites

basically u would need some form of management to change injectors so that probably rules that out and the pump also (usually)

the powerfc boost kit offers basic boost control , it does not offer gear / rpm / duty based boost control , auto turbo learning boost control (where you do some 7000rpm runs and it automatically learns your boost curve) , scramble mode or any of the ricey stuff . although this stuff may or may not be usefull to you for the price difference (bugger all) you might as well get the avcr , atleast it can be removed and sold if you have to its not tied to the powerfc and you might want those extra features one day . There is a thread covering this if you want to search

with a powerfc , injectors and pump you should see 250rwkw . the turbo will be the restriction so perhaps plan a slightly bigger fuel system that could support 300+ incase you decide to get a bigger turbo later

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/64154-whats-been-done/#findComment-1203489
Share on other sites

thanks for your suggestion, i called GCG turbos, and they said the turbo is good for 260kw and 24psi boost...

but as you said i will require injectors and pump, as i want it to be a reliable 250rwkw...

Should i be leaning towards upgrading fuel lines aswell, and will a fuel regulator be in order?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/64154-whats-been-done/#findComment-1203496
Share on other sites

Your stock injectors will look a purpleish color.

To take the black ring off to gain access to the tank then ur pump u will need a bar and a hammer.Sit the bar a groove then keep beating it counter clockwise untill u get it open.It may take a while but it is by far the only way to undo it.And make sure u put it back on the same way it came off.:)(I used a car jack bar and hammer)

Get into this thread catchcan plumbing question it tells all u need to know,with pics too,about catch can plumbing and will also help u decide what style setup u need.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/64154-whats-been-done/#findComment-1203501
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...