Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

jash overcharges way too much

supertek charged me 10 bux for an adaptor plate, where jash was wanting 60 (for JUST the adaptor plate)

(on the phone he quoted 15, so when I got there and he was saying 60 I wasn't a happy little camper)

pod I can't remember, not much at all, supertek made up a custom one for me which was nice :O

skyzerr: what? :O

Originally posted by adam 32

kym

i duno about legality of them, ive been over the pits twice with it, and they havent said anything. ive been pulled over and no-ones said anything

this is either

a) they are legal

B) i have been ****ing lucky!

hahahah

nice imput adam :cool:

I just bought an APEXi filter from Evolution R, lil bit pricey but the noise it brilliant, Cost $160 and it bolts straight on, no adapter plates etc, come with everything you need, got a little gasket and the bottom of the filter has all the different bolt patterns, fantastic. You just need to make something to that it doesnt sit on the intercooler piping and suck all that nice hot air.

i got quoted like $180 for a K&N so I decided that jap brand will be the way to go.

laters

Originally posted by SpecII

I just bought an APEXi filter from Evolution R, lil bit pricey but the noise it brilliant, Cost $160 and it bolts straight on, no adapter plates etc, come with everything you need, got a little gasket and the bottom of the filter has all the different bolt patterns, fantastic. You just need to make something to that it doesnt sit on the intercooler piping and suck all that nice hot air.  

i got quoted like $180 for a K&N so I decided that jap brand will be the way to go.  

laters

you can get them from takakaria for $80 plus postage so about $110 all up.

Okay just looked it up.

Skyzzer33 i dunno man, it says $80 USD so basically thats almost 2 to 1 on aussie dollar. Roughly $160 plus postage. so my price wasn't bad and I didnt have to wait for postage.

Is that right, US dollars, anyone else want to confirm

catcha,

did anyone meet anyone else at the bentley opening of that store or what. I didnt really get too meet people and I wasnt there for very long.

if you did see me though, it was a white R33 parked on the grass out the front, haha attention seeka,

laters

Go to Supertech, in Bentley speak to Scott - say N1K sent u- awesome deal. Buy an airfilter like the Blitz off him for only $65 and he'll adapt it all on for a little extra $...cheap cheap cheap & looks good. The airfilters are flow tested and flow the same if not better than sum jap ones. pm or email for address or i'll take u down.

N1K

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...