Jump to content
SAU Community

service my skyline


Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

can someone please advise me of a decent place in Sydney to go to get my first service done on my R33?...

Need the works done full service and a possible change of timing belt! I have no I dea where to go. I was thinking of taking it to that ADVAN place in silverwater that have a store in NZ as well they seem to know what they are talking about.

Is that a good plave or is there somewhere else you think i should be taking it to?.

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6444-service-my-skyline/
Share on other sites

Hey dude I just had a service and timing belt change on my 33 at advan the service was great and it was the cheapest out of the major import mechanics I tried. They did an overall check on the car and they seem very reliable.

I rang a performance mechanic in tuggerah on the central coast who does mechanical services and enhancements on modified cars but I didnt end up getting a quote.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6444-service-my-skyline/#findComment-97512
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I found it.

I was charged $639 including GST.

$108-CAM BELT

$3.75-FREIGHT

$45.45-REPLACED OIL/CLEANED AIR FILTER/CHECKED SPARK PLUGS/CHECKED FRONT AND REAR BRAKE PADS/CHECKED COOLANT/CHANGED CAM BELT

$12-OIL FILTER

$10.95-1 LITRE ANTI FREEZE

$10.50-WORKSHOP SUPPLIES

$390-LABOUR

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6444-service-my-skyline/#findComment-134299
Share on other sites

A friend of mine just got his stock R33 GTS-T serviced by a company listed above.

$170 odd for an overall check, new oil filter + oil and i think that was about it.

If you want my advice do the following at home

Oil Filter

Oil

Fuel Filter

Clean AirPod.

It will cost you about $70-80 for parts and about 2hrs of your time. And probably save you around $150-200 in labour.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6444-service-my-skyline/#findComment-134575
Share on other sites

hi,

a good work shop charge around $60 in pure labour alone.

so $390=6.5hr. and again this is an overall charge which includes the spark plugs checking and changing the belts.

fair price i guess.

im no mechanic but i do a lot of work on many cars.

these are things i would do to save money as BENM said:

eng oil

oil filter

fuel filter

coolant

air cleaner

spark plugs

transmission fluids

brake fluids (more complicated)

brake pads

etc.

and if we have trouble of doing any of the simple works we can always jump on the forum and ask others for advice.

hope this is of any help

ron

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6444-service-my-skyline/#findComment-136717
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...