Jump to content
SAU Community

Can you turn normal attessa system into attessa pro ?

jezzrrr

By jezzrrr,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

gtrken Grand Master

gtrken

Posted
Posted

Jeremy, what are you chasing exactly??

A normal attessa is more than capable of providing the driving ability /handling required.

As mentioned, a torque split controller will provide the adjustment required for the spirited driving phase when required.

As far as using a pro? I think it is only V Spec vs normal and in the R34 GTR, you would need to be VERY switched on to pick the difference, especially for street application.

Cheers

Ken

jezzrrr Community Regular

jezzrrr

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ken,

Im not getting enough torque to front wheels during 7 grand launches, the gauge is reading max 30kg/per(whatever the measure is) rather than going up to the full 50 and I get wheel spin at rear when belting it around corners. this apparently means its an electrical issue rather than a clutch pack issue in the transfer case. Thus my enquiry about attessa pro which throws more torque up front

Cheers

Jeremy

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

Yeah all you guys need is an atessa controller to move more power to the front wheels. I understand the HKS ones are getting harder to find but there are a few different ones out there.

Generally if the xfer case is working OK you can adjust between 0 and 50% front torque

gtrken Grand Master

gtrken

Posted
Posted
Ken,

Im not getting enough torque to front wheels during 7 grand launches, the gauge is reading max 30kg/per(whatever the measure is) rather than going up to the full 50 and I get wheel spin at rear when belting it around corners. this apparently means its an electrical issue rather than a clutch pack issue in the transfer case. Thus my enquiry about attessa pro which throws more torque up front

Cheers

Jeremy

Jezza, I don't think I have seen any of my GTR's get to 50% and even with the HKS torque split controller, they don't get there in mine. Not saying they won't but maybe I am not brutal enough :rofl:

Virtually all the GTR's ( once again) I have had also spin the rear tyres somewhat during cornering as the reaction/action of the computer and fliud is not instantaneous. Mind you, it's is more fun than rex understeer..

Cheers

Ken

DJ984 Mentor

DJ984

Posted
Posted

i honestly am not a genius or anything on this topic, i have limited knowledge (very) so don't flame me buuttt.....

In theory, wouldn't it be better to leave it as is and have much more rear-bias torque split rather than an even 50/50 split etc...?

I say this because i know (in theory) that the front wheels pulling on the 4wd does induce a certain amount of understeer thus I would have thought that it would be better to run a 30/70 (front/rear) split rather than say even 45/55 or 50/50 etc for the sake of being able to pull the car round a corner/curve/bend etc exceptionally whilst still maintaining a tight line... :confused:

I understand the rear wheelspin and oversteer is also an issue for consideration 'cause it can get annoying but if it was that big an issue wouldn't you turn to tyres, suspension, weight distribution etc before contemplating the possibbility of reducing the cornering cpabilities of the car by using the torque splitting.... :confused:

Then again... if it's a drag car, my theories just go totally out the back door don't they... lol!... can someone elaborate on this for the benefit of expanding my knowledge?... Cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • EndZee
      Fuel Pump Control Module & Dropping Resistor

      By EndZee · Posted

      Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • Duncan
      M35 Brake caliper replacement

      By Duncan · Posted

      You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Duncan
      Most women will agree that parking is the most taxing part of driving

      By Duncan · Posted

      Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Duncan
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • Duncan
      NC MX5

      By Duncan · Posted

      On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
×
×
  • Create New...