Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A way to test the clutch integrity is to put it in 4th gear, pull the handbrake on as hard as you can without breaking it and try to take off. You may have to accelerate a bit. The aim is to stop the car from stalling. If it tries to keep running or you can keep it going for a while (like 2 seconds) then the clutch is had it.

When the clutch is fully engaged, ie. your foot is not on it, the car should stall immediately no matter how hard you try.

If it stalls immediately, start looking at other things.

BTW. It would NOT be a good idea to rev it to 6000 rpm when performing this test as you'll end up like my idiot friend who drove his car through the end of his garage. Bloody GTS4 traction. 2000 rpm is enough.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/64837-r33-laging/#findComment-1213257
Share on other sites

My second guess would be to start looking at Turbo and AFM. Check for end play in the shaft of the turbo, in that model there should be none at all. Check to make sure it spins freely, however, don't spin fast. Just turn it half a turn gently. If it appears ok, next thing to check would be the wastegate actuator. With an air pump or mightyvac you need to simulate boost pressure to ensure the actuator is working at the correct level.

How is the fuel pump? Do a flow and pressure test on the pump to make sure it is flowing at the correct rate.

Are there any error codes?

Check to make sure the AFM is clean.

Check to make sure there are no vacuum leaks from anywhere. Get a water sprayer (like hairdressers use) and soak all hose connections while the car is running to check for leaks (you will hear the idle change when it sucks up the water).

Start with those things and if they don't help, post a reply.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/64837-r33-laging/#findComment-1214851
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...