Jump to content
SAU Community

r33 laging

vic_sky33

By vic_sky33,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

vic_sky33 Enthusiast

vic_sky33

Posted
Posted

hi guys need some help,

my R33 is playing games again, just dropped a new clutch although the tacho is ok its the speedo that i can see the slowness .

does anyone know if its loosing power from clutch or laggin from somewhere else ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

A way to test the clutch integrity is to put it in 4th gear, pull the handbrake on as hard as you can without breaking it and try to take off. You may have to accelerate a bit. The aim is to stop the car from stalling. If it tries to keep running or you can keep it going for a while (like 2 seconds) then the clutch is had it.

When the clutch is fully engaged, ie. your foot is not on it, the car should stall immediately no matter how hard you try.

If it stalls immediately, start looking at other things.

BTW. It would NOT be a good idea to rev it to 6000 rpm when performing this test as you'll end up like my idiot friend who drove his car through the end of his garage. Bloody GTS4 traction. 2000 rpm is enough.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

My second guess would be to start looking at Turbo and AFM. Check for end play in the shaft of the turbo, in that model there should be none at all. Check to make sure it spins freely, however, don't spin fast. Just turn it half a turn gently. If it appears ok, next thing to check would be the wastegate actuator. With an air pump or mightyvac you need to simulate boost pressure to ensure the actuator is working at the correct level.

How is the fuel pump? Do a flow and pressure test on the pump to make sure it is flowing at the correct rate.

Are there any error codes?

Check to make sure the AFM is clean.

Check to make sure there are no vacuum leaks from anywhere. Get a water sprayer (like hairdressers use) and soak all hose connections while the car is running to check for leaks (you will hear the idle change when it sucks up the water).

Start with those things and if they don't help, post a reply.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LjB123
      R34 Series 1 And 2 Front Reo Difference?

      By LjB123 · Posted

      Awesome to know. I have a Series 1, and When pulling my front bumper off for the first time i realised my reo/crash bar was a bit worse for wear, and was going to try pick up a better one soon just so i can replace it. Someone is selling a full series 2 front bar and brackets for a decent price, so was going to probably reuse my brackets and install the new second hand reo/crash bar. I also have a genuine Altia body kit to do up, spray and put on, and not sure if that will use the series 1 or series 2 brackets for the front bumper, so having both will be handy, and knowing i can drill holes out to make stuff fit between series is also handy to know!
    • Kinkstaah
      R34 Series 1 And 2 Front Reo Difference?

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I should also say that the while they are different the only parts that matter are the center headlight supports and center bar from S1 to S2. The center bar will work, but the S1 has holes that clips go through into the S1 bumper. So if you were super cheap you could simply drill the S2 bar. Same thing with the side/wings. They have slightly different 'clips' but can be made to work. The center headlight brackets however, cannot. This is also where the GTR differs, which has a different center bar, and different headlight supports (to either GTT system), it also has different 'wing' headlight supports which is what I am calling under the headlight. However those CAN be made to work with the GTT Reo for a GTR front bar by a small spacer and a drill/tapping a thread into the reo because the bolt positions are slightly different. So people only really need the center brackets to go between GTT S1, GTT S2, and GTR if you are happy to do some tinkering.
    • dbm7
      forum.r31skylineclub.com down or gone?

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Indeed  😃  Appears the site is back up now (migrated not updated) - kudos @funkymonkey & @PranK
    • GTSBoy
      rb20de neo +t conversion - boost pressure sensor needed?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If this, then this You can't really get away without it. There are hacks that you can do in Nistune, but things are much easier with the sensor than without it. If you're not planning to Nistune the ECU, then stop right now and add it to your plan anyway, because the ECU is going to shit the bed over the missing ABS and TC computers that it expects to see, and you need Nistune to stop it chucking all its toys over the side of the crib.
    • kindaruined
      rb20de neo +t conversion - boost pressure sensor needed?

      By kindaruined · Posted

      hey guys, so ive done a complete +t conversion using mostly stock parts on my rb20de neo r34.  Im wanting to know if a boost pressure sensor is needed? Seems like the engine cuts out when i try to do a pull and I have a feeling its because a boost pressure sensor is missing. I'm using a stock r34 rb25det neo ecu.
×
×
  • Create New...