Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys due to getting stuffed around for hat seemed an eternity i have to sell my turbo setup AGAIN, all as a package:

- Garrett GT3540 Ball Bearing Turbo - 700hp capable (made in japan)

(Came with .82 exhaust housing, but ive changed it with a .63, for no lag, so its probably now a 650hp capable turbo??)

- Turbosmart 45mm progate (external wastegate)

- 3" stainless steel dump/front pipe to catalytic converter

- Stainless steel screamer pipe for the wastegate

- Front custom size air Filter pipe [(stainless i think)(to suit apexi POD)]

- Front housing to cooler pipe(stainless i think)

- Braided lines for oil and water

- Microtech LT-8 Computer (inc instruction manual)

ok these all came off an R33 Rb25det, the turbo exhaust manifold has been modified slightly to fit straight onto standard R33 exhaust manifold so no need to buy exhaust manifold, the wastegate has been tapped into the rear housing so no need for manifold. (but as i have changed the rear housing, u have to mount the wastegate elsewhere, may be able to supply adaptor plates also).

The pipes included are 3" stainless steel for back of turbo to cat, the pipe for the air filter and the pipe for the front housing to cooler as this is slighlt different shape to standard.

the air filter pipe was customed to fit apexi POD filter.

the microtech LT-8 is also supplied in excellent condition.

This was never fitted to my car, but fitted on previous owners car it has done 5000kms and is in excellent condition with no oil anywhere. Believe me its got some serious balls and that wastegate will scare the pants of most drivers. The exhaust housing is new, so basically your buying a half new turbo!!!!

This conversion is all you need for an R33 rb25det, basically bolt on turbo and exhaust, wire in the microtech and go get it tuned.

I am looking for $3000 for the lot or

$2600 for turbo setup

$600 for microtech

this is cheap considering the price of the turbo alone, and its half new!!

i will take the first best genuine offer so get in quick.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...